Pit Bull Prowser
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At the crux (11b) of the first pitch.
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The [third] route from the right.
This route climbs up past 15 bolts to lowering anchors. As described in the Boulder Canyon guide its 2 pitches and goes at 5.12A1, however I have climbed the entire route in one pitch and felt that it goes free at about 13a.
Ken searching for the clips on the upper part of t...
By Bill Wright
Jul 26, 2002
The first pitch of this route is rated 11b and is a fun route in that grade. Unfortunately, the crux comes right off the ground and involves a pretty intense crimp and a high step. A bit brutal for a warm-up. The rest of the pitch is easier, but continuous and fun. Clipping the bolts on the upper section is a bit awkward because the bolts are on one side of the arete, but the climbing is on the other.
From: Denver, CO
Oct 26, 2014
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
There is a very definite crux at the third bolt (of pitch 2) that seemed like it would go two ways. A huge body length dyno up and right to an angled rail or classic BoCan crystal crimping up and left. I only managed the latter, but the dyno would be spectacular. Either way it's pretty mean and punchy. Good stone, but it looked as if the second pitch doesn't see much action these days.
It's also worth noting that pitch 1 shares anchors and the last four bolts with Cujo Tranquilizer to the left.