Climb the left-facing varnished corner past a wide section to the anchors, which are currently a pair of drilled angles. This obvious route is pretty fun and deserves more attention.
The route is 3.3 miles from the McDonalds (intersection of the Kane Creek road and 191, just after the Moonflower Canyon Campsite on the left. The route is about 20 feet from the pavement. Moonflower Canyon might be the best place to park.
Double rack of BD c4's from .4 to 3, 1 each 4, 5 and 6.