Damn this route is cool. Pitch 1: some fingers and stemming. 5.10+. There is not a fixed nut here, as described in Stewart-Green's guide. Pitch 2: a burly 5.11 offwidth move leads to killer thin hands that pull over a bulge onto the exposed face. A hanging belay awaits. Pitch 3: Time to get serious. Lots of #2 friends and purple camalots protect this pitch. The curving offset splitter is unrelenting. Either send this pitch, or get Pistol Whipped!
Rap: A double rope rap from the top to a roomy ledge. Another double rope rap (maybe single, but you already got the ropes tied together) to the ground.
Lots of thin hands and rattly fingers. A #4 Camalot will help on the second pitch.
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 14, 2012
I brought up a #6 for the slot after contemplating it (thrutching) for a while.
Oct 26, 2012
I would also agree that a #6 would be nice. We took a #4 camalot and although it fit, it could easily be knocked out. Which it did. Also, please be careful at the belay of the 3rd pitch. Those anchors need to be replaced.
|By Matt Pesce|
From: moab, ut.
Jun 22, 2013
#5 and #6 friend definitely helpful. no perfect hands for the average guy hand. didn't use a single #2 or #3 camalot. many .5 camalot and 1.5 friends