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Pistol Whipped
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Pistol Whipped 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 310'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Ruckman bros
Page Views: 2,984
Submitted By: Max Schon on Jan 1, 2002
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Climbers high up on the third pitch.

Description 

Damn this route is cool. Pitch 1: some fingers and stemming. 5.10+. There is not a fixed nut here, as described in Stewart-Green's guide. Pitch 2: a burly 5.11 offwidth move leads to killer thin hands that pull over a bulge onto the exposed face. A hanging belay awaits. Pitch 3: Time to get serious. Lots of #2 friends and purple camalots protect this pitch. The curving offset splitter is unrelenting. Either send this pitch, or get Pistol Whipped!

Rap: A double rope rap from the top to a roomy ledge. Another double rope rap (maybe single, but you already got the ropes tied together) to the ground.


Protection 

Lots of thin hands and rattly fingers. A #4 Camalot will help on the second pitch.



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By tooTALLtim
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 14, 2012

I brought up a #6 for the slot after contemplating it (thrutching) for a while.

By dameeser
From: denver
Oct 26, 2012

I would also agree that a #6 would be nice. We took a #4 camalot and although it fit, it could easily be knocked out. Which it did. Also, please be careful at the belay of the 3rd pitch. Those anchors need to be replaced.

Matt

By Matt Pesce
From: moab, ut.
Jun 22, 2013

#5 and #6 friend definitely helpful. no perfect hands for the average guy hand. didn't use a single #2 or #3 camalot. many .5 camalot and 1.5 friends