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Doc Holliday Wall
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Unforgiven S 

Pistol Pete 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Chris Miller, Pete Paredes & Chuck Scott, July 2001
Season: Spring - Fall
Page Views: 8,599
Submitted By: C Miller on Mar 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (154)
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Dr. Dan Berisford about to move though crux 2.

Description 

Climb the slab passing two bolts (use a long draw or runner on the 2nd bolt) to a sloping ledge below the main face. Clip the third bolt, work up and right via an undercling flake and then continue up the featured face/arete to a small stance at the 7th bolt. Above here the climb changes character (again) and finishes up the exposed slabby arete via delicate, balancy moves.

Location 

Starts from ground level 15' right of Quick on the Draw and climbs the right side of a dark slab before heading up the left side of the main face.

Protection 

8 bolts, chain anchors


Photos of Pistol Pete Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pistol Pete (5.10a), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Pistol Pete (5.10a), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the top of Pistol Pete (5.10a), Holcomb Va...
Nearing the top of Pistol Pete (5.10a), Holcomb Va...
Rock Climbing Photo: Spot on!
Spot on!
Rock Climbing Photo: Pistol Pete (5.10a), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
BETA PHOTO: Pistol Pete (5.10a), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Rock Climbing Photo: The top out is a pretty heroic position.  Fun rout...
The top out is a pretty heroic position. Fun rout...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pistol Pete
Pistol Pete
Rock Climbing Photo: Pistol Pete
Pistol Pete
Rock Climbing Photo: Pistol Pete
Pistol Pete
Rock Climbing Photo: Just above the crux
Just above the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: The initial slab of Pistol Pete (5.10a), Holcomb V...
The initial slab of Pistol Pete (5.10a), Holcomb V...
Rock Climbing Photo: High above the treetops on Pistol Pete (5.10a), Ho...
High above the treetops on Pistol Pete (5.10a), Ho...
Rock Climbing Photo: Larry lie-backing on a perfect, strong side pull.
Larry lie-backing on a perfect, strong side pull.
Rock Climbing Photo: Moving past the undercling section on Pistol Pete ...
Moving past the undercling section on Pistol Pete ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Solid clipping stance
Solid clipping stance
Rock Climbing Photo: Pistol Pete
Pistol Pete
Rock Climbing Photo: First slab section of Pistol Pete
First slab section of Pistol Pete
Rock Climbing Photo: The super fun undercling section of Pistol Pete.
The super fun undercling section of Pistol Pete.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pistol Pete
Pistol Pete
Rock Climbing Photo: Scott cleaning at the second crux.
Scott cleaning at the second crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Zen Master Scott Nomi on the starting slab.
Zen Master Scott Nomi on the starting slab.
Rock Climbing Photo: Dan finishing his lead of Pistol Pete. Climb explo...
Dan finishing his lead of Pistol Pete. Climb explo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rappelling down Pistol Pete.
Rappelling down Pistol Pete.
Rock Climbing Photo: Holds getting thinner.   Good Times!
Holds getting thinner. Good Times!

Comments on Pistol Pete Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 16, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This is about the longest line in the Pinnacles, and a lot of fun! Definitely has a wide variety of character. The crux is pulling the small headwall just off the ledge. There is a sweet secondary crux up high on the thin slab. As is par for the area, this route is well-protected.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jun 1, 2008
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

I've done this route a few times now and am never disappointed. The slab start, under cling, and thinning arete up top make for varied climbing. Agreed this route is well protected and a great lead.

Nice work.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Jul 3, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Some people think that this is the best 5.10 at Holcomb, but IMHO it gets 3 out of 4 stars because there's the possibility of escape once at the bottom of the upper arete, this is a tad distracting and removes purity from the line. If this is 5.10a then Ricochet is 5.9. Therefore I give this 5.10b as it's crux moves are slightly more demanding technically.

The route has three distinct sections; a slab, a bouldery mid-section, and a steep arete/face, each has it's own crux. People who include Hoof and Mouth in their bouldering circuit at Stoney will barely notice the second section's crux.
By RockyR
From: Encinitas, CA
Aug 4, 2011

This route has everything. Thin, edgy, under-clings and it kicked my butt even on top rope! Definitely has a couple of crux section for me. The under-cling and the face climb up above. Super fun!
By Brian Chastain
Jul 3, 2012

I'm confused because my book says 10c and I felt that was kind of accurate compared to the other climbs at Holcomb. It isn't that this route was hard, but I just think 10a is no consistent with the rest of the climbing in Holcomb. Great climb though
By Rob M
From: Shangri-LA
Aug 4, 2013

I think I'd put it at 10b, but I was pretty tired at that point. It was a bit heady since I'd never been on it, but man what a fun, fun route. I'd rate it as one of the best mid 10s, but Ricochet is pretty darn fun too.
By Phil Esra
May 4, 2014

Slab start to first bolt felt much harder than anything above to me. More sustained and difficult overall than Doc's Holiday to the right. It's a mystery to me how the consensus can be 10a/b for this one and 10d for Doc's Holiday.
By Beau Skelton
From: Palm Desert, UT
Aug 30, 2015

Man what a classic. Starts off with a super balancy slab on the bottom with positive crimps and feet. Move up onto the ledge and get ready for some bizarre and unique vertical climbing. Right before the top there is another committing slab section for the win. All around fun and unique moves. Definitely a must do for the area.

Consensus: 10b 4 star!

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