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Routes Sorted
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Doc's Holiday 
Far Beyond Driven 
Loose Women, Loose Rock 
Pistol Pete 
Quick on the Draw 
Skyline Pillar 
Unforgiven 

Pistol Pete 

5.10a

   
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Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Consensus: 5.10a/b [details]
FA: Chris Miller, Pete Paredes & Chuck Scott, July 2001
Season: Spring - Fall
Submitted By: C Miller on Mar 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (68)
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Holds getting thinner. Good Times!

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Description 

Climb the slab passing two bolts (use a long draw or runner on the 2nd bolt) to a sloping ledge below the main face. Clip the third bolt, work up and right via an undercling flake and then continue up the featured face/arete to a small stance at the 7th bolt. Above here the climb changes character (again) and finishes up the exposed slabby arete via delicate, balancy moves.


Location 

Starts 15' right of Quick on the Draw and climbs the right side of a dark slab before heading up the left side of the main face.


Protection 

8 bolts, chain anchors



Photos of Pistol Pete Slideshow Add Photo
Pistol Pete (5.10a), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles

Pistol Pete (5.10a), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles

The initial slab of Pistol Pete (5.10a), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles.

The initial slab of Pistol Pete (5.10a), Holcomb V...

High above the treetops on Pistol Pete (5.10a), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles

High above the treetops on Pistol Pete (5.10a), Ho...

Larry lie-backing on a perfect, strong side pull.  To the right of the third bolt is a slightly overhanging section.  Grabbing this side pull and walking up the ramp simplifies getting through this crux.  The next hold, above and to the left in white, appears to be a pinch, but has a nice jug slightly to the left.

BETA PHOTO: Larry lie-backing on a perfect, strong side pull. ...

Dan finishing his lead of Pistol Pete.  Shown is almost the entire route (misses the slabby beginning).  Near the top, hands run out and slab technique must take over.  Look for solid feet to the right, and stretch out for good hands near the anchor. Climb exploits all sorts of techniques--very interesting!

Dan finishing his lead of Pistol Pete. Shown is a...

Nearing the top of Pistol Pete (5.10a), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles

Nearing the top of Pistol Pete (5.10a), Holcomb Va...

The super fun undercling section of Pistol Pete.

The super fun undercling section of Pistol Pete.

Photo topo for Doc Holiday Wall, Holcomb Valley Pinnacles.

BETA PHOTO: Photo topo for Doc Holiday Wall, Holcomb Valley Pi...

First slab section of Pistol Pete

First slab section of Pistol Pete

Pistol Pete

Pistol Pete

Moving past the undercling section on Pistol Pete (5.10a), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles

Moving past the undercling section on Pistol Pete ...

Dr. Dan Berisford about to move though crux 2.

Dr. Dan Berisford about to move though crux 2.

Zen Master Scott Nomi on the starting slab.

Zen Master Scott Nomi on the starting slab.

Scott cleaning at the second crux.

Scott cleaning at the second crux.

Spot on!

Spot on!

The top out is a pretty heroic position.  Fun route!

The top out is a pretty heroic position. Fun rout...


Comments on Pistol Pete Add Comment
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By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 16, 2007
rating: 5.10b

This is about the longest line in the Pinnacles, and a lot of fun! Definitely has a wide variety of character. The crux is pulling the small headwall just off the ledge. There is a sweet secondary crux up high on the thin slab. As is par for the area, this route is well-protected.

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jun 1, 2008
rating: 5.10a/b

I've done this route a few times now and am never disappointed. The slab start, under cling, and thinning arete up top make for varied climbing. Agreed this route is well protected and a great lead.

Nice work.

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jul 3, 2009
rating: 5.10b

Some people think that this is the best 5.10 at Holcomb, but IMHO it gets 3 out of 4 stars because there's the possibility of escape once at the bottom of the upper arete, this is a tad distracting and removes purity from the line. If this is 5.10a then Ricochet is 5.9. Therefore I give this 5.10b as it's crux moves are slightly more demanding technically.

The route has three distinct sections; a slab, a bouldery mid-section, and a steep arete/face, each has it's own crux. People who include Hoof and Mouth in their bouldering circuit at Stoney will barely notice the second section's crux.

By Raquel ROCKY Robles
From: Encinitas, CA
Aug 4, 2011

This route has everything. Thin, edgy, under-clings and it kicked my butt even on top rope! Definitely has a couple of crux section for me. The under-cling and the face climb up above. Super fun!

By Brian Chastain
Jul 3, 2012

I'm confused because my book says 10c and I felt that was kind of accurate compared to the other climbs at Holcomb. It isn't that this route was hard, but I just think 10a is no consistent with the rest of the climbing in Holcomb. Great climb though