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P.A.'s Mother
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Altar Boy T,S 
Archbishop, The T 
Coed Crack T 
E.B. Jeebies S 
Exposed Cleavage S 
High Hopes S,TR 
Hobnail Arete T,S 
Mama's Boy S 
Mother of Invention S,TR 
Pissant S 
Quality S 
R.R. Crossing S 
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Two Pinches to Paradise S 

Pissant 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Andy Knight
Page Views: 810
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Jun 24, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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BETA PHOTO: West Face of P.A.'s Mother
1 Pissant 5.10b
2...

Description 

Balancy climbing on small holds with a few larger holds here and there.

Start up using small, but positive holds past three bolts to a ledge. Continue above the ledge where the line gets slightly overhanging after the fourth bolt. Straight above the last bolt it is quite thin and desperate, until after a reachy move to another ledge just below the chains.


Location 

The left-most bolted route on the west face of P.A.'s Mother.


Protection 

6 bolts, chain anchors.



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One bolt to go then chains
One bolt to go then chains
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By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
May 7, 2009

The part after the last bolt is THIN! I was running out of gas and had to lunge for the great top-out ledge. That for me was the crux.

By Jon Bitter
From: Waco, Tx
Sep 7, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I agree with everything about the top, but the bottom was tougher than I expected too. The only way I could figure out to do it was to use the crack and pull straight off to the right.

By Kenny Clark
From: State College, PA
Jul 13, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I agree about the lunge to the top-out ledge. It's the best way to get past that part. Get some decent holds, and go for it. There are really no feet to move up on, plus, the dyno is fun. I guess, if you can get it, you could traverse out left and skip it all, but you're definitely missing the 10b.

By brodysmith
Jul 25, 2014

This was a great route, the beginning was super mellow and consistent but the climbing then gets a tad harder at the top but in a good way. The bolts are in perfect places for the lunge move to the top, you have 3 points of contact so it is not a dyno people don't let this deter you from doing the climb. this was a really mellow 5.10b. the tricky part is to stay balanced to clip the last bolt which was my favorite move. picture when I redpoint here soon.