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 ADVANCED
Medlicott Dome, Center
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Donuts TR 
Excellent Smithers S 
Forsaken T 
Goldmember T 
Piss Easy (aka West Face of Medlicott) T 
Shagadelic T 

Piss Easy (aka West Face of Medlicott) 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,439
Submitted By: caughtinside on Aug 13, 2007

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Brian leading p1 of Piss Easy. Crux bulge just ab...

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  • Description 

    Piss Easy goes up the large crack in the right facing corner. Use a variety of OW moves and some features on the face. The low angle keeps the grade moderate.

    p1--goes up the corner, surmounting a 2' bulge 3/4 of the way up, 5.8. Belay on a good ledge. 100'.

    p2--Continue up the corner. The wide crack gets funkier, resulting in easier climbing, but harder to protect. I wouldn't call it run out though. 150', 5.7. Ends on large ledge.

    The route continues up for a couple more pitches, but we didn't do them, opting to do the slab route Goldmember instead. There is no easy way down from the ledge atop p2, so you either need to continue up, or leave gear to rap. (you can rap if you do Goldmember.) Please add to this description if you've done the entire route.

    Location 

    40 feet right of Shagadelic, 250 feet right of the Yawn.

    Protection 

    Standard rack, emphasis on large cams (3 and 4 camalot)


    Photos of Piss Easy (aka West Face of Medlicott) Slideshow Add Photo
    Brian leading p2 of Piss Easy
    Brian leading p2 of Piss Easy
    Josh starting the runout on pitch 3.
    Josh starting the runout on pitch 3.
    Josh contemplating the crux on pitch 1.
    Josh contemplating the crux on pitch 1.
    Alanna finding a rest spot on pitch 2.
    Alanna finding a rest spot on pitch 2.
    Looking down pitch 1.
    Looking down pitch 1.
    Topping out on the West Face route.
    Topping out on the West Face route.

    Comments on Piss Easy (aka West Face of Medlicott) Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Josh Cameron
    From: Moab, Colorado
    Jan 29, 2015
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

    3 stars for the first 2 pitches and 1 star for the last 2.
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