Piss Easy (aka West Face of Medlicott)
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Josh starting the runout on pitch 3.
Piss Easy goes up the large crack in the right facing corner. Use a variety of OW moves and some features on the face. The low angle keeps the grade moderate.
p1--goes up the corner, surmounting a 2' bulge 3/4 of the way up, 5.8. Belay on a good ledge. 100'.
p2--Continue up the corner. The wide crack gets funkier, resulting in easier climbing, but harder to protect. I wouldn't call it run out though. 150', 5.7. Ends on large ledge.
The route continues up for a couple more pitches, but we didn't do them, opting to do the slab route Goldmember instead. There is no easy way down from the ledge atop p2, so you either need to continue up, or leave gear to rap. (you can rap if you do Goldmember.) Please add to this description if you've done the entire route.
40 feet right of Shagadelic, 250 feet right of the Yawn.
Standard rack, emphasis on large cams (3 and 4 camalot)
Topping out on the West Face route.
Alanna finding a rest spot on pitch 2.
Josh contemplating the crux on pitch 1.
Brian leading p2 of Piss Easy
Brian leading p1 of Piss Easy. Crux bulge just ab...
|Comments on Piss Easy (aka West Face of Medlicott)
By Josh Cameron
From: Moab, Colorado
Jan 29, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
3 stars for the first 2 pitches and 1 star for the last 2.
From: Atascadero, CA
Sep 4, 2016
Not sure why the roof is referred to as a "bulge." (also called a bulge in the guidebook) I think of a bulge as a hump, something smooth and rounded. Either way, the two pitches were fun.