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 ADVANCED
Medlicott Dome, Center
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Donuts TR 
Excellent Smithers S 
Forsaken T 
Goldmember T 
Piss Easy (aka West Face of Medlicott) T 
Shagadelic T 

Piss Easy (aka West Face of Medlicott) 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,149
Submitted By: caughtinside on Aug 13, 2007

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Brian leading p1 of Piss Easy. Crux bulge just ab...

2014 Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Piss Easy goes up the large crack in the right facing corner. Use a variety of OW moves and some features on the face. The low angle keeps the grade moderate.

p1--goes up the corner, surmounting a 2' bulge 3/4 of the way up, 5.8. Belay on a good ledge. 100'.

p2--Continue up the corner. The wide crack gets funkier, resulting in easier climbing, but harder to protect. I wouldn't call it run out though. 150', 5.7. Ends on large ledge.

The route continues up for a couple more pitches, but we didn't do them, opting to do the slab route Goldmember instead. There is no easy way down from the ledge atop p2, so you either need to continue up, or leave gear to rap. (you can rap if you do Goldmember.) Please add to this description if you've done the entire route.

Location 

40 feet right of Shagadelic, 250 feet right of the Yawn.

Protection 

Standard rack, emphasis on large cams (3 and 4 camalot)


Photos of Piss Easy (aka West Face of Medlicott) Slideshow Add Photo
Brian leading p2 of Piss Easy
Brian leading p2 of Piss Easy
Josh starting the runout on pitch 3.
Josh starting the runout on pitch 3.
Josh contemplating the crux on pitch 1.
Josh contemplating the crux on pitch 1.
Alanna finding a rest spot on pitch 2.
Alanna finding a rest spot on pitch 2.
Looking down pitch 1.
Looking down pitch 1.
Topping out on the West Face route.
Topping out on the West Face route.

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