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Piscassic River Conservancy Easement (The Nature Conservancy)

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Piscassic River Conservancy Easement (The Nature Conservancy)  


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Location: 43.0767, -70.9545 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,249
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: nhclimber on Jul 21, 2012
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Description 

Shady, Secluded, and rambling. Granite quality is from grainy and bombproof to old and crumbly.

Getting There 

Head 152 North from downtown Newmarket. Once you pass by Grant Rd. on your left, the lot for the conservancy will sneak up on your right. If you've gone more than a 1/4 mile, you passed it. The parking lot is between the first and second house on the right past the Piscassic river bridge.

Once you park, walk across the field into the woods. You'll come across a trail which is a couple mile loop. Head west / north west (left on the loop), and you'll quickly come across the first set of boulders. Some climbs have been toothbrushed, but they're pretty fresh.

As you continue down the trail you eventually merge with land that has been granted to the Audubon Society. A spur trail breaks off the loop and more small cliffs and boulders continue. The rock seems to get more broken as you go on the trail but there are always things to climb.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.3 miles from here

11 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',5],['V2-3',5],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Piscassic River Conservancy Easement (The Nature Conservancy)
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Spider Eggs V2+ 5+  NH : Newmarket (bouldering) : ... : Spider Wall
This is a fun problem on some old crumbling granite. It starts sitting with feet on a low rail, a left hand side pull, and a right hand 2 pad crimp. you travel up to a sharp crimp, then traverse left to a sloped pitch. Follow that up and right to the top-out....[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Piscassic River Conservancy Easement (The Nature Conservancy) Slideshow Add Photo
Photo of the map at the parking area.
Photo of the map at the parking area.
1st Rock on trail
1st Rock on trail
Arete
Arete

Comments on Piscassic River Conservancy Easement (The Nature Conservancy) Add Comment
Show which comments
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 26, 2013
Brian D Moore, I hope you don't mind, I am temporarily giving this area to nhclimber so he can break it down into separate boulders. We can then move the routes to their specific homes.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 26, 2013
Jon, do you need the routes moved out of Downtown and Heron Point areas so you can break them down into boulders too?
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Aug 26, 2013
Herron point is pretty light and really only has the one descent boulder and some eliminates. Downtown is also light, this problem and a couple other ones, so probably not needed. This area, besides the lackluster description, was a really good find by those guys. It will yield quite a few problems.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 27, 2013
Is it OK to scrub boulders and climb here? At least in RI, I found TNC to be real sticklers and anti-climbing. One of the areas with the most potential in RI is closed due to them and the Audubon Society. People may want to keep the cleaning to a minimum unless it is a heavily used area anyway.