Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
The Shark's Fin
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Coral Sea Adventure S 
East Face S 
Fat Black Mama S 
Ol' White Pappy S 
Pirates on Horseback S 
Shark's Fin Arete S 
Unknown Boulder Problem 

Pirates on Horseback 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Tim Standing, 2007
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,403
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Oct 29, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (57)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
"Pirates on Horseback". Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

A steep start past three tightly-spaced bolts leads to easier climbing up the arete.

Expect lots of loose rock and marginal holds--this route might be quite hard when it cleans up.

Location 

Directly opposite the famous 5.7 arete.

Protection 

7 bolts to 2-bolt anchor with Mussy Hooks.


Photos of Pirates on Horseback Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: "Pirates on Horseback". Photo by Blitzo.
"Pirates on Horseback". Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Amy Jo Ness on "Pirates on Horseback". P...
Amy Jo Ness on "Pirates on Horseback". P...
Rock Climbing Photo: Michael on Pirates on Horseback  @ Shark's Fin.  A...
Michael on Pirates on Horseback @ Shark's Fin. A...
Rock Climbing Photo: Route topo for the South Arete of the Shark's Fin
BETA PHOTO: Route topo for the South Arete of the Shark's Fin
Rock Climbing Photo: "Pirates on Horseback". Photo by Blitzo.
"Pirates on Horseback". Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Trevor at the third bolt chalking up.
Trevor at the third bolt chalking up.

Comments on Pirates on Horseback Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bruce Bindner
Oct 31, 2008

This route is called Pirates on Horseback, rated 5.10b. FA Tim Standing, 2007.
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
May 4, 2009
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Pretty good climbing on fair to poor rock. Curious placements on the first few bolts. Easier to just skip the first one rather than trying to clip it. Watch out when you lower off the top. The anchors are such that you will whip around the corner to the steep side of the Fin and abrade your rope pretty good.
By old5ten
From: Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
Dec 18, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

definitely not 10+, fun, decent holds, tightly bolted on the bottom
By butters
From: Mammoth Lakes, Ca
Jan 26, 2014
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

2nd bolt can be skipped, epic views.
By BAd
Mar 14, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Didn't find a lot of loose stuff--fun and kinda stout. 10b is prolly fine. I gave it the good ol' 5.10 grade. I'm more of the 10-/10/10+ school.
By George Wu
From: Newport Beach, CA
Jul 18, 2015

Must have been climbed enough since the original review. I found the route reasonably clean - nothing loose that concerned me at all.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!