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Pirate's Cove

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
As Surely as the Flower Blooms T 
Black Panther S 
Good, the Bad, and The Boltless (High Plains Drifter variation), The T 
Indian Summer T 
Mutiny S 
Unknown T 
Unnamed 5.10a T 
Unnamed SL 7 T 

Pirate's Cove Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.2427, -80.8485 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 14,546
Administrators: Ladd, Chris Whisenhunt, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jul 6, 2007


80° | 59°

83° | 62°

85° | 62°

85° | 63°

83° | 63°
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Pirate's Cove in May when the water's high. You ca...


Pirate's cove is only accessible for standard roped climbing when the water is down during the late fall/early winter. It houses a hand full of good lines such as Mutiny and Indian Summer.

Getting There 

Walk/swim climber's left from the Coliseum.

Climbing Season

Weather station 2.0 miles from here

8 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Pirate's Cove

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Pirate's Cove:
Indian Summer   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 50'   
Mutiny   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Pirate's Cove

Featured Route For Pirate's Cove
Rock Climbing Photo: Mutiny. Fall, 1999.

Mutiny 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : Pirate's Cove
Mutiny is the obvious, razor-sharp overhanging arete at Pirates' Cove -- only accessible during low water. Boulder up to a high first clip, and continue clipping bolts on the right side of the arete, using holds on both sides, to a crux move near the anchors. The climb is often dirty due to high water, but it is classic nevertheless....[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

Photos of Pirate's Cove Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Liz looking sketchy...
Liz looking sketchy...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pirates cove in May 2007.
Pirates cove in May 2007.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jake halfway through the traverse.
Jake halfway through the traverse.
Rock Climbing Photo: Behind the Water Fall
Behind the Water Fall
Rock Climbing Photo: This wall to the right of the falls has several ni...
This wall to the right of the falls has several ni...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pirates' Cove in November when the water is down.
Pirates' Cove in November when the water is down.
Rock Climbing Photo: First trip and loved it.
First trip and loved it.
Rock Climbing Photo: summersville
Rock Climbing Photo: Pirate Cove at "low-Tide"
Pirate Cove at "low-Tide"
Rock Climbing Photo: DK making his way up the right side of the falls.
DK making his way up the right side of the falls.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pirate's Cove
Pirate's Cove

Comments on Pirate's Cove Add Comment
Show which comments
By Andrew May
From: Westminster, CO
Jan 30, 2009
Looks like a pretty sweet place to DWS!
Does the water ever get very warm?
By Ladd
Feb 3, 2009
The water gets to 70 degrees. It is incredible.
By DaveB
Feb 4, 2009
Hey Ladd, what is the current "legal" status of DWS at Summersville? Heard hefty fines being issued if caught. True?
By Ladd
Feb 4, 2009
Yes fines are being given, if you do climb do not be caught and do not fall. if is only illegal to "jump or fall into the water from above 6 feet in height" they do not specify climbing as illegal, just falling.
By DaveB
Feb 5, 2009
"...they do not specify climbing as illegal, just falling."

By jesco
May 27, 2009
bring your a-game...or else.
By T Seas
Jul 24, 2009
Just currious, has anyone heard any factual storries of climbers being fined for falling on a dws route here?

I have climbed 3 times here since the ban and have never been talked to and all the other climbers I have talked to there have not been fined or know anyone that has. We had a police boat motor by when we were climbing 2 walls down from whipporwill and they didn't even stop to watch if we fell, they just motored on by. To me it seems they are trying to stop drunk rednecks from dying as they jump off without spotting a landing. I read that 7 bodies on average were being pulled out of the water and sent to the morgue per year. Once again climbers are getting a bad rep from nonclimbing idiots.

5 years ago a drunk southern boy jumped unanounced while I was climbing by the cove, landed 1 foot from a floating log and I even warned him to spot his landings and anounce jumps in the future, the kid was too drunk or southern to understand my concern, he replied "i'll just kick it out of the way when I land, no need to wory" !!! My spotter had warned me about the log so I climbed to a ledge and was waiting for it pass when the kid splashed down.

Anyways back to the fines, any acounts of a fine issued to a falling climber, or a climber watched or talked to by the police?
By Chuck Lepley
From: Boulder, Colorado
Oct 3, 2010
Any updates on fines for Deep Water Soloing here?

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