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Midnight Rock
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Pirate Radar 
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Pirate Radar 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bob Horan, Chule Lee, 1998
Page Views: 639
Submitted By: Joe Keyser on Jan 1, 2001
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Pirate Radar photo by Bob Horan.

Description 

This is a huge roof with a crack through it. It is very obvious when you first arrive at Midnight Rock. It is on the left side of the formation when looking approximately north (uphill). The crack looks like it would have good jamming the whole way. However, I pulled a 3 inch piece of rock out of it, and the jams weren't that solid! I think the way to climb it successfully would be using the flakes to the left of the crack. You start out climbing up for about 15-20 feet through 2 bolts, and then take a tricky travese to the left under the roof, for about 10 feet. Now climb the big roof. I thought it was harder that it looked, but, fun nevertheless.


Protection 

This is a short route, with about 6 bolts, and a couple pitons. However, you will only need to use the bolts, and maybe a #2, or #3 cam for the crack below the lip of the roof. 2 bolt anchor.

Per Mark Rolofson: this route was originally done with 4 bolts & 3 pins.



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By Mark Rolofson
Feb 12, 2013
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a

Great route but this route description is a bit misleading. First, this route was originally done with 4 bolts & 3 pins. In 1999, (with Bob Horan's permission) I replaced the pins with 2 bolts. The upper piton was a large angle that I removed, the other 2 pins, I couldn't get out but are easily ignored. The 5th bolt allows you to make one clip instead of clipping two pitons from the very strenuous, thin crack in the ceiling. As for bringing gear for the upper crack, you've got to be kidding! The 5th & 6th bolts are 4 feet apart.
As for loose rock, there is none. I've climbed it every year since 2010 and back in 1999. I don't use the chalked up flake left of the crack. It is better to undercling the crack to a deep fingerlock near the 2nd piton, to then reach out to good hand jams. At the lip, go left on face holds. I strongly recommend taping your hands. I've lost flesh each year from the back of my hands, wrists & palm of my left thumb from the fingerlock.