Piranha Roof  5.10 PG13

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95 feet Consensus:  5.10c [details] FA:  Chris Pelczarski, November 2nd, 2010 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Tater Tot on Nov 4, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Tater tot on the first ascent of Piranha Roof, jus...

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Description 

This route is named so because of Piranha Crack, the route to the right. The routes share the last 3 bolts.

The route climbs over the totally atypical to the area and very obvious roof. Pull the roof and continue climbing the face to the left of Piranha Crack. Eventually, you'll see a pod off to your right with a tree growing out of it. Stay on the face to the left and continue up and generally left through the three bolts that are part of the route Piranha Crack.

Location 

Follow the directions to the Abominable Snowman. The route can be identified by the sweet looking roof about 15 feet off the ground, immediately to the left of 2 cracks, one which goes to the ground and another which begins about 20 feet off the ground. Don't look for a bolt line to identify this route - they aren't spaced every 5 feet and the first bolt is about 25 feet off the deck (the route takes gear before the first bolt.)

The roof is the main identifiable feature of this climb.

Protection 

You'll want to place a piece or two of gear in the crack at the back of the roof, as this is your first piece of protection and what protects you when you pull the roof. Definitely put a long runner on your gear!

After that, you'll clip 7 bolts - 4 new ones and 3 old ones which are shared with Piranha Crack.

There is a bolted anchor at the top, and one 60 m rope can get you down.

Photos of Piranha Roof Slideshow

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Enjoying the feeding frenzy moves on the roof pull...