Pipe Organ Spire-Southeast
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British C1
Avg: 2 from 3 votes
Type: | Trad, Aid, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | John Auld, Gary Ziegler, Jim Dyson, John Kuglin 1961 |
Page Views: | 1,455 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | Ben Kiessel on Nov 7, 2006 |
Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Pitch 1: Climb slab to a crack, follow the crack up past two 1/4' bolts and a bulge to a ledge and an anchor. (5.10)
Pitch 2: Free past the bolts that are up and right of the anchor, until they stop. Continue on mixed free and aid, 1-2 aid moves, to another ledge and anchor. (5.10, C1)
Pitch 3: This is a really loose pitch. Climb up, staying to the right. Climb through a notch in the summit cap rock, to an anchor. (5.8+R)
Note: Desert Rock III says that this route goes free at 5.10. But pitch 2 seemed like it would be much harder than that to free. On pitch 2, the rock is loose, the crack, the holds and the gear all sort of runs out at once.
Pitch 2: Free past the bolts that are up and right of the anchor, until they stop. Continue on mixed free and aid, 1-2 aid moves, to another ledge and anchor. (5.10, C1)
Pitch 3: This is a really loose pitch. Climb up, staying to the right. Climb through a notch in the summit cap rock, to an anchor. (5.8+R)
Note: Desert Rock III says that this route goes free at 5.10. But pitch 2 seemed like it would be much harder than that to free. On pitch 2, the rock is loose, the crack, the holds and the gear all sort of runs out at once.
Location
This route was originaly climbed from the notch between the Pipe Organ Spire and Organ Pipe spire on the north side of the formation (which is what's described above).
Harvey Carter added a one pitch direct start to this route which starts on the southeast side of the rock formation and climbs to the same notch. The direct start appears to be a loose chimney.
(Note: the ground level on the South side of the formation is about 100' lower than it is on the North side.)
Whichever way you go whether walking or climbing, when you get to the notch between the towers, there is a bolt visible about 30' up in a wide pod, showing you the route.
Harvey Carter added a one pitch direct start to this route which starts on the southeast side of the rock formation and climbs to the same notch. The direct start appears to be a loose chimney.
(Note: the ground level on the South side of the formation is about 100' lower than it is on the North side.)
Whichever way you go whether walking or climbing, when you get to the notch between the towers, there is a bolt visible about 30' up in a wide pod, showing you the route.
Photos
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