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John Baldwin on Pipe Dreams. Photo: Bob Horan Coll...
This is a very nice sport climb on the North Face of Black Widow. Immediately around the corner from Vaino/BobD's new routes, right of Dracula and the Resinator is this pitch.
The lower section features back-to-back mantles to get established at a no-hands rest. The next section climbs a knobby face to a ledge with an intermediate anchor. Avoid stemming into the adjacent corner in this section. Slightly contrived, and thus the reason this is a 2-star climb and not 3. Unclip the anchor draw and (if you can reach it) the last bolt on the lower section to allieviate rope drag on this wandering pitch. The upper section makes a traverse left to a crack, followed by a tricky traverse back right and eventually into a jug hole (crux). Easier climbing to the top. Bring a 60m rope since this is a fairly long one.
14 or so bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. There is also an intermediate anchor.
John Baldwin leading Pipe Dreams.
Chip leading Pipe Dreams #1.
Chip leading Pipe Dreams #2.
Chip leading Pipe Dreams #3.
|By J Baldwin|
May 1, 2010
To clarify this route description, the second section stays just to the right of the wide crack using pockets and face holds that move upwards and right to finish with a thin crack and the anchors. Also, I did the first free ascent after setting this route up. -John Baldwin.