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 ADVANCED
Totem-Proto Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chicken Shit Salad S 
Direct North Face T 
Drop 'em South S 
Fern Gully Arete S 
Fruits of Optomisim, The S 
GTKO T 
Inertia T 
Milk of Manatee T 
Original Optomist T 
Overcoming Inertia T 
Pathological Optimist T,S 
Pipe Bomb T 
Pipe Cleaner T 
Protean Catch T 
Proto Pipe S 
Proto Type T 
Shakin' & Eggs T 
Totem Pole Direct S 
Totem Pole, The S 
Up in Smoke T 
Unsorted Routes:

Pipe Cleaner 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Arjun Heimsath and David Sampson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 179
Submitted By: arjunmh on Apr 9, 2013

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AMH at the top after the ground up FA - photo by D...

Description 

Start in a wide crack that you can protect well and stem up to avoid potential loose rock. From the main ledge place good gear in the north facing crack system and pull a bulge to access a nice right leaning hand crack that leads to mellow face climbing. A few 5.9 moves and some careful movement to avoid loose rock. We cleaned some, but not all of the rocks off (dogs below). Rock quality for gear is great, just watch what you step on and pull on!

Two bolt anchor with quick links and biners THAT ARE NOT BOOTY.

Location 

Upslope from Proto Pipe, this route goes up the prominent crack system to a ledge and then up the north facing crack-face system to end up higher than the top of Proto Pipe on a narrow top.

Protection 

Doubles to #3 would be safe, though you'll likely use much less. 6-8 longer draws.


Photos of Pipe Cleaner Slideshow Add Photo
The only action shot and my eyes are closed! First climb in the area ... sleepy sleepy. Pic by DAS.
The only action shot and my eyes are closed! First...

Comments on Pipe Cleaner Add Comment
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By David Arthur Sampson
Apr 10, 2013

Nice ground up FA Arjun! Good job. This was a fun route.
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Apr 10, 2013

Thanks David, and yes, it is a fun route and awesome views from the top. This too will clean up nicely when we don't have dogs lounging around the base.
By ldsclimber
From: Queen Creek AZ
Apr 12, 2013

Thats awesome that you guys beat me to it! I was eying it. Now its a race to see who stands on the top of the small pole to the west of it. Im glad to see more routes going up in this very worth while area!