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Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bee Line T 
Black Wall Traverse 
Boss Man, The T 
Chips Block T 
Edge of Night T 
Ending Crack T 
Glory Days S 
Half Ascent T 
Lost in the Sespe T 
Pipe Cleaner T 
Roadside Cracks T 
Tree Root T 
Wadka T 
Wasp/The Sting, The T 
White Spider, The T 

Pipe Cleaner 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Unknown (mid-60s)
Page Views: 2,980
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Feb 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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Though it is possible to climb Pipe Cleaner as one...

Description 

Pipe Cleaner follows the third most-obvious line on the wall (in this case, left of Ending Crack). The route follows an undulating crack which occasionally masquerades as a shallow corner. The crack ranges from a few millimeters wide to about 8 inches (although no gear over 3-inches is absolutely necessary). The gear is good and the climbing is fairly sustained. Unlike Ending Crack, which has abundant face holds on either side, this route forces you to use the crack--expect plenty of fist jamming and even a little off-width climbing.

The top of the route features a bolted anchor--2 glued-in eye-bolts and a Fixe Triplex. It takes two ropes to reach the ground.

The most unusual feature of this route is that it seldom has any dry ground beneath it. This means that you will likely have to build a hanging belay in a large hole about 8 feet above the water. Keeping the rope dry is an excellent test of your rope management skills. When you pull the rappel lines, one of your ropes is surely getting wet.

Though not truly multi-pitch, I find the climbing on this route to be more enjoyable than Tree Route.

Protection 

Gear: small to 4"

Fixed anchor on top.


Photos of Pipe Cleaner Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pipe Cleaner - 160ft of varied fun
BETA PHOTO: Pipe Cleaner - 160ft of varied fun
Rock Climbing Photo: My carabiner won't fit on this BIG bolt next to Pi...
My carabiner won't fit on this BIG bolt next to Pi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Becca moving on up
Becca moving on up
Rock Climbing Photo: Pipe Cleaner (5.6) is located just right of the pl...
BETA PHOTO: Pipe Cleaner (5.6) is located just right of the pl...
Rock Climbing Photo: The 2 bolt anchor for Pipe Cleaner
BETA PHOTO: The 2 bolt anchor for Pipe Cleaner
Rock Climbing Photo: Michael McKay climbs the first half of Pipe Cleane...
Michael McKay climbs the first half of Pipe Cleane...
Rock Climbing Photo: The view from the top
The view from the top
Rock Climbing Photo: David Hoffberg demonstrates the water start, an of...
David Hoffberg demonstrates the water start, an of...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pipe Cleaner in its entirety
BETA PHOTO: Pipe Cleaner in its entirety
Rock Climbing Photo: Cory on repel, Pipe cleaner
Cory on repel, Pipe cleaner

Comments on Pipe Cleaner Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jon Hanlon
From: SLO
Feb 26, 2006

Descend the gully if you want to keep your rope dry.
By Mtnfly
From: El Segundo, Ca
Sep 9, 2011

I saw the same chalk mark today. It was not there 3 months ago. Route looked ok, I was wondering the same things????
By Steven Wolpe
From: Ojai, CA
Aug 26, 2015

Bottom of the route is totally dry. Had a blast on my second lead in the Sespe Gorge. The bolt hanger is missing at the anchor.
By Chad Parker
From: Ventura, California
Nov 6, 2015

The crux is about 25 feet up. The route is more like 135'. Two ropes to rap or if you rap on a 70m rope be prepared for about 20' of easy down climbing. There is dry ground now at the base of the climb. The creek is almost dried up now.

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