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Pioneer via Pioneer Pass & East Ridge

Name: Pioneer via Pioneer Pass & East Ridge
Rating: 2.0

Easy 5th YDS 1+ French 3 Ewbanks I UIAA 5 ZA M 1c British WI2+

Routes in 1. North Faces (from Fairy Meadow)

L › R R › L A › Z

	Adamant - North Ridge via Variation of Kaufman Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI2 Mod. Snow
	Adamant-Turret-Austerity Traverse T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Mod. Snow
	Austerity - Std Route T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c WI2 Steep Snow
	Cycle Mtn Meadow Rest Day T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
	Direct Northwest Ridge of Outpost T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Horn - SE Face and Unicorn T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Houdini’s Needle "Std" Route & Houdini-Pythias Traverse T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
	Magog T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Mt Austerity - East Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Steep Snow
	N E Ridge of Pioneer T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c A1
	North Face Sentinel T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Steep Snow R
	North Peak of Colossal via East Couloir T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	NorthEast Ridge Mt. Austerity (Nester Ridge) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3 A1
	NW Ridge Quadrant with Rabbit Ears Arete (s) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Outpost to Spire Traverse/ Quadrant Spire T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Pioneer via Pioneer Pass & East Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c WI2+
	Pythias, Damon and Friendship Col T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Easy Snow
	Sentenel Peak - Shoofly Arete of North Ridge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	W. Face of Quadrant's So. Peak ("Cross-Hall") T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A1 PG13

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Type:	Trad, Ice, Alpine, 2000 ft (606 m), Grade III
FA:	members of Harvard Mountaineering club 1953
Page Views:	856 total · 9/month
Shared By:	Robert Hall on Apr 6, 2016
Admins:	Robert Hall, Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

More interesting than the normal snow-slog via Friendship Col, combines some ice and rock climbing.

From Fairy Meadow hike up towards Adamant-Austerity but bear left after getting around the lower end of the north ridge of Sentinel.

Continue towards Pioneer Pass [photo], cross bergshrund and climb high angle snow or ice above 'shrund to the pass itself.

Head right towards the east ridge (rock) [photo] and up this [photos] to snow summit and then on to the rock summit.

Descent- We descended the standard route to the col between Pioneer and the East Peak (of Gothics). [East Peak can easily be included in the itinerary with a moderately fast party.] From the col follow glacier back to Friendship Col and Fairy Meadow.