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This historic route was the first line up Monkey Face. It begins on the southeast side of the tower.
Pitch 1: 5.6 Scramble up a series of ledges to a ramp up and right to a vertical crack that takes you to the notch formed between the main buttress and Monkey face. Once at the notch turn the corner and climb up the face using traditional pro, bolts, and fixed pins. Belay at the left of two anchors on a long ledge.
Pitch 2: C0 Move up an overhanging red face on a bolt ladder into the "monkey's mouth." Belay from the unique angle-iron anchors.
Pitch 3: 5.7 Move the belay to the east edge of the cave (mouth). Reach out of the cave and move straight up the face for 25ft on bolts to a ledge with chains. This classic pitch is short but airy. The opening moves have been called "panic point" due to the noticeable exposure.
Pitch 4: 5.5 Ascend the boulder at the belay and move norward. Step across a small trough and head for the a bolted anchor on the east side of the summit at a ledge.
From here is a 4th class jaunt to the true summit. Be sure to take in the scenery and take pics for your REI catalog cover shot.
-Single 60m rope: rap the route
-Double 60m rope: This more spectacular 2 rope rap is a highlight for many. Use a single rope to rap from 4th pitch anchors to 3rd pitch anchor. Finally thread the large rap ring and take the almost entirely free hanging rappel to the ground.
All anchors are fat bolts or chains.
-Single set of cams #.75-#3 camalot
- Long slings and 4-5 quickdraws
BETA PHOTO: Tyrolean Traverse anchors in mouth cave
Joanne coming up the third pitch of the Pioneer Ro...
The pitch up to Bohn Street
The Bolt Ladder
Entering the Monkey's mouth.
Looking down on the Bolt Ladder and Bohn Street
Looking down on the Bolt Ladder
Entering the Monkey's Mouth
The Belay in the Monkey's mouth.
Looking down the Panic Point pitch
Tossing the rope from the Rap. Two 60M will get yo...
Scott Bennett speed solos the Pioneer Route
Lucas cleans and jugs the bolt ladder
On the bolt ladder. Photo taken by Andrew Eck.
|Comments on Pioneer Route
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 27, 2006
For Tyrolean Traverse:
-Fix rope at anchors on main buttress and do a single rope rappel into the notch.
-Continue up first pitch as Pioneer route on separate rope. When at the Monkey's mouth pull fixed rope tight and fix it also to the anchors in the mouth.
-First traverser can then use ascenders to jug back across gap on fixed line while being belayed from mouth. Be sure to put the loose end of the fixed line through the anchor in the mouth and tag it across.
-Once the first traverser has made the gap he/she pulls the tagged line taunt so that both its ends are fixed. This rope will now be only running through the anchor in the mouth but not fixed to it.
-Now the 2nd climber can do the traverse. Once they are to the main buttress the rope may be untied and pulled through the monkey mouth anchor cleanly.
|By Peter Franzen|
From: Phoenix, AZ
May 7, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
Pitches 3 and 4 can easily be combined.
We ran into a spot of trouble on the rap off of this today. The wind blew one of our ropes over to the other side of the notch, where it became caught. I won't go into the details of our near-epic getting it out, but the end result was that I had to rap down the West side of the Monkey.
Apr 20, 2010
Common advice is to french free the bolt ladder on quickdraws. This works fine, but is strenuous.
Make sure that both partners are able to do this or bring ascenders for the second.
From: Concord, MA
Jan 4, 2011
I believe the solo speed record for the pioneer route is currently 3m30sec. Time starts at the beginning of the fourth class, ends at the summit. GET IT!
From: Concord, MA
Sep 13, 2011
Updated speed record- 3 minutes 25 seconds by Brad Gobright
|By Richard Shore|
Apr 22, 2013
Mostly good 3/8" bolts on the bolt ladder pitch. Some are homemade hangers, some odd (but fat!) bolts; I pushed two of the loose rawls back in their holes which were sticking out ~1". Not much to worry about if leading since there are TONS of bolts, but may be a cause for concern if you solo the route with daisies like I did. Don't pull outward!
|By Alex Quitiquit|
From: Salt Lake City
May 29, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
Nice work on the speed record! It took me about 4 minutes alone to lob my way up the bolt ladder Baguette-freeing on belay.
|By Noah C|
Oct 11, 2013
Both Summitpost and the new Falcon guide say a double rope is mandatory for rappel, but this page mentions a single rope rappel. Is it possible to rap with a single 60m or 70m?
|By another Chad|
Oct 12, 2013
"Both Summitpost and the new Falcon guide say a double rope is mandatory for rappel, but this page mentions a single rope rappel. Is it possible to rap with a single 60m or 70m?"
Nobody rappels the Pioneer Route. Not sure why it's mentioned in the route description. Rappelling from the mouth to Bohn Street seems like an exercise in frustration. Not to mention you'd annoy the group that would invariably be on the bolt ladder.
As Watts puts it: "Two ropes are mandatory on the descent." page 222