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Pioneer Park

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Bird Nest Boulder 
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Toehook Area 

Pioneer Park Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.11695, -113.57607 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 12,046
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: wasatch-mtn-man on Apr 7, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: area topo

Description 

On the north end of the city of St. George sits this public park that families and visitors love to explore. Looking north, you see the word 'Dixie' painted white on the cliff band right next to the road. Expect crowds at peak times but hosts a few fun boulder problems and some even newer bolted and top-roped routes in this typical desert sandstone. It is a hueco-tropolis of fun bouldering/climbing. Expect to find a fair amount of shattered glass, some engraved graffiti and trash. Watch those huecos for glass.

Perhaps someone that knows the area better can provide other details. I will post a few boulder problems and include pictures of a few short routes with names as well as others I am not familiar with. Because I don't know the boulder problem ratings, for now I will list them as V0.

Although I am from out of town, I decided to post the area so that others wishing to find easy access to bouldering while in the area would have some idea.

Todd Goss' book Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah provides an excellent overview of the area (and all other St. George areas for that matter) and can be picked up at the Desert Rat on St. George Boulevard or the Outdoor Outlet among other places. This guide is fantastic and even includes quality color photos.

Getting There 

Follow the roads to the north of the city and park in one of the areas that serve the park. The best place to park is on the Pioneer Park Loop road that is more to the east.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.2 miles from here

55 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',20],['1 Star',10],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',3],['5.10',2],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',6],['V2-3',28],['V4-5',13],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Pioneer Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Pioneer Park:
The Main Traverse   V0 4     Boulder   Toehook Area
Tender Foot   V0-1 4+     Boulder, 17'   Boy Scout Cave
Manscaping   V2 5+     Boulder, 7'   Boy Scout Cave
Shiga-Dang   V2 5+     Boulder, 10'   The Boob
Rails of Sand   V3 6A     Boulder, 12'   Boy Scout Cave
The Boob   V3 6A     Boulder, 15'   The Boob
Mangum Impalement    V4 6B     Boulder, 15'   Mangum Boulder
Punch Party   V4 6B     Boulder, 15'   Boy Scout Cave
Pink Toes   V4 6B     Boulder, 5'   Boy Scout Cave
Javier   V4 6B     Boulder   The Boob
Unknown Destany   V5 6C     Boulder, 15'   Boy Scout Cave
Toehook Traverse   V5 6C     Boulder   Toehook Area
Warrior Man   V6 7A     Boulder   Boy Scout Cave
Baby Swiss   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   The Narrow
Dixie Rock   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Dixie Rock
Swiss Emmental   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   The Narrow
Lacy Swiss   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   The Narrow
Suburban Mailbox   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a V4 6B     TR, Boulder, 15'   Bird Nest Boulder
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Pioneer Park

Featured Route For Pioneer Park
Rock Climbing Photo: Hyrum moving through the moves

Punch Party V4 6B  UT : Saint George : ... : Boy Scout Cave
Super fun steep and pumpy problem with big throws that lead to a hueco and decent crimps to top out on. starting feet are on the pioneer bricks....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Pioneer Park Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Nothing to advertise here, just the gateway some s...
Nothing to advertise here, just the gateway some s...
Rock Climbing Photo: Another mini-slot  canyon climb that can be TR'd. ...
BETA PHOTO: Another mini-slot canyon climb that can be TR'd. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown climb located in the mini slot canyon from...
BETA PHOTO: Unknown climb located in the mini slot canyon from...
Rock Climbing Photo: Different angle of same slot canyon climb. If you ...
BETA PHOTO: Different angle of same slot canyon climb. If you ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Shows Suburban Mailbox, Bird Nest Traverse, and Ch...
BETA PHOTO: Shows Suburban Mailbox, Bird Nest Traverse, and Ch...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bottom view of corner climb shown from above in pr...
BETA PHOTO: Bottom view of corner climb shown from above in pr...

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