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Pinyon Crag
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Pinyon Crack 
Satchmo, The 

Pinyon Crack 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Brandt Allen and Tom Atherton, Sept. 1990
Page Views: 135
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Aug 1, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: "Pinyon Crack".
Photo by Blitzo.

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Description 

Crux lieback/finger jam moves on excellent rock down low lead to easier climbing above.


Protection 

A few pieces of gear, or do it unroped (short, good landing, crux down low)



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By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 16, 2008

Basically a tall boulder problem. Crux is the first two or three moves, after which it quickly eases to about 5.6. A bit like an easier version of Uncle Fester.

By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Nov 10, 2010

A nice little short route with crux finger holds down low and easier hand and fist jamming above.

By Bjorn
From: Near Joshua Tree
Mar 21, 2013

I love the two-facedness of this crack. The beginning is an excellent, demanding fingercrack and footwork crux on bullet, gorgeous rock. The jug this crux ends with announces the pleasant cruising above. The upper portion's rock is crumbly suddenly but solid enough and the perfect hands and fists are surrounded by jugs. Can't imagine bringing rope and gear.