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South Fork
Routes Sorted
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"ET" Extremely Tough Slab S 
1/2 Route, AKA Unknown S 
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Center Route T 
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Expecting T 
Fred Beckey T 
Hall of Smears S 
High Noon S 
Hueco 2nd Pitch S 
Hueco Direct Start T 
Hueco Traverse S 
Huecos Rancheros S 
I Stab Ourselves S 
Last Rites T 
Namaste S 
Pins and Needles S 
Pulp Friction S 
Sand Surfin' S 
Self Abuse S 
Shotgun T 
Southern Comfort T 
Spiderfinger T 
Tail Of The Cock T 
Tango T 
Touch Me Fall T 
Twins Paradox S 
Xanadu T 
Yahweh T 
Unsorted Routes:

Pins and Needles 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA:  Dave Thomas & Stuart Litjens - May, 1996
Page Views: 2,640
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Oct 21, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Perin Blanchard at the second bolt on Pins and Nee...

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Description 

Across from the dramatic, overhanging, tiger-striped wall that contains "Namaste" is a beautiful grey slab (the Marmot Slab). This area currently contains 6 lines. From left to right they are:

Unknown Project: Only two bolts thus far.

Extremely Tough Slab: 5.11d with a 5.13 extension (rumored).

Pins and Needles: 5.11a. - tan bolt hangers.

Pulp Friction: 5.10c. - about 75 feet right of Pins and Needles and 5 feet left of a left-facing flake.

Sand Surfin': 5.10b - also left of a left-facing flake. Currently a cracked hanger at bolt #2 and potentially very dangerous.

Self Abuse: 5.9 and a variation of Sand Surfin' that begins at it's third bolt and dodges off straight left to another line of bolts.

All of the climbs are generally well-protected slabs of varying difficulty proportional to the steepness of the wall. I recommend starting with Sand Surfin' (skip Self Abuse) and working your way left down the wall until you get shut down.

Protection 

9 bolts to a two-bolt, vertically-oriented Fixe rap anchor.


Photos of Pins and Needles Slideshow Add Photo
Jon Pocock starting up Pins and Needles.
Jon Pocock starting up Pins and Needles.

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By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Nov 19, 2007

Stuart Green's Rock Climbing Utah lists this route at 120 feet. I estimated 105 to 110 feet when using the middle mark on a 70m rope. However, it looked like there might be enough left in the 70m to indicate that a 60m would work as well (but it'd be close).

The route is well-protected; I wasn't too worried about any falls and I'm not exactly a slab hardman.
By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Nov 20, 2007

Description



Start up on some rippled, darker, reddish rock toward the first bolt, which is about 15 feet up. Things start getting a bit thinner; there exist mild depressions here and there, and a few tiny, ever-so-slightly lower-angled protrusions.

Getting to, clipping, and then getting past the fourth bolt is the crux, with nothing other than blank slab and plenty-o-smearing. At the fifth bolt you gratefully reach rock that is a bit more featured (including a shallow hueco or two) and you can relax just a bit. Continuing upward you'll find here and there thin, horizontal stripes of grayer rock that provide just a touch more friction.

Just before the last bolt and continuing through to the anchor there is another fairly blank section, which has the added benefit of thin, slippery patches of lichen to avoid. However, this blank section is slightly lower-angled than the crux.

Location



Marmot Slab is the gray, slabby sandstone on the north side of the canyon across from the dramatic, orange-and-black striped, overhanging wall that contains Namaste.

Pins and Needles is located about 75 feet left (downcanyon, west) of a left-facing flake. Immediately to the left of the flake is Pulp Friction. The bolt hangers for Pins and Needles are tan colored, making the route fairly easy to identify. The first bolt is about 15 feet up the slab; the first part of the route ascends some reddish, rippled-looking rock.
By DaveB
Nov 22, 2007

Perin, nice job and description. I've not yet climbed this area. How would you rate/describe the quality and consistency of the rock (and other nearby slab routes)? Sticky/sandy? Solid/friable, etc.?
By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Nov 22, 2007

Thanks, Dave.

The rock is very solid; nothing is coming off. It is a bit sandy. About every other move I gingerly reached down and brushed off the soles of my shoes, and more than once I brushed "holds" where I was about to place a foot.

In fact, part of the "cruxiness" of the smoothest bit is that there isn't enough friction to be able to lift both a hand and a foot at the same time so as to brush a sole clean.
By DaveB
Nov 28, 2007

Thanks. Great info and insight to the (often unspoken) difficulties of sandstone slabclimbing...sandiness, etc. I, too, am no "slab meister," and trusting my footwork through "sugary" spots is usually THE major mental crux for me! It sounds like this is a significant issue here. (Gulp...)
By the professor
Oct 29, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This is a very nice route. The rock (at least at the crux band) has a hard varnished surface with rough texture. The surface sand is not because the slab is decaying, rather the sand falls from dunes and ledges far above.