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Pinocchio
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3.1 from 10
votes
Routes in Mont de l'Ours
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Astro T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Aéro T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Blind date S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Branchement au mur T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fantaisie Spatiale T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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La Directe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Le blues de la brosse à dent T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pinocchio T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Puf!Puf!Puf! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 445 ft (135 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | J.P. Cadot & P. Desautels (1971) |
| Page Views: | 1,194 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Jerome St-Michel on Jul 26, 2016 · Updates |
| Admins: | Luc-514, Thierry Berland, Richer Lariviere |
Access Issue: This site is on the Parc des Grand Jardins SEPAQ
Details
sepaq.com/pq/grj/
Description
The route start in the obvious hollow.
Pitch 1 (15-20 m): Establish yourself under the little roof and pass it on your left. Boulder up to the top of the broken hollow and reach the slab. Follow the crack system until you reach a fixed anchor, clip it and traverse left to another fixed anchor which is more convenient for belaying. (5.8)
Pitch 2 (60m): Follow the crack system above the belay to the vertical section, pass it to gain some moderate terrain. Keep following the crack system to another vertical section that heads slightly on your right hand side. Again, gain some more moderate terrain to a fixed archor. (5.8)
Pitch 3: At this point you meet with La DIrecte (de L’Ours). Right above the belay, head for the finger crack that seams to disappear. Climb it and gain the slab, clip the bolt and reach the last anchor. (5.6)
Descent: With two (2) 60 m rope you can rappel La DIrecte (de L’Ours).
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