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DescriptionPino Wall is roughly 500 feet tall and stands immediately east and a little south of the Jawbone summit (i.e., south of the upper tram terminal). Pino Wall has a 'nose' which divides the wall into a west side and an east side. The west side faces SW while the east side has a more south-facing aspect. Hence, the east side is in full sun much earlier in the day compared to the west side. Getting ThereThere are at least three ways to get to the base of Pino Wall. The best option depends on the climbing plans for the day.
Continue by descending south down a steep gully or couloir. Tend a little towards the skier's right (west) side of the couloir, staying in rock fields to minimize stickery bushwhacking. It can be tricky to know and/or see where to tend back to the center of the coulier. The descent of the coulier ends when one is level with or (hopefully) at the top of a roughly 40 foot high cliff band. This narrow cliff band spans the center of the coulier and so is a barrier to further descent on foot down the very middle of the couloir. From the top center of the cliff band traverse east on 3rd class terrain and finally work down a large low-angle slot to the base of Pino Wall. For a good view of the west face of Pino Wall, bypass the cliff band on skier's right (west) side to a point approximately level with the bottom of the cliff band. Pino Wall route can be viewed from a large rounded rock ("viewing rock") surrounded by bushes. One can then return to the top of the cliff band. Alternately, one might be able to bushwhack down, across, and then back up to the east side of the couloir to the base of the wall. To return to the aspen stand of the Pino Wall & Jawbone approach from near the top of Pino Wall route: hike up for roughly 50 yards and then stay approximately level while trending left on relatively easy off-trail terrain through groves of Scrub Oak. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Pino Wall:
Desert Man 5.10a/b PG13 Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III
Bad Fun 5.10b Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 430 feet, Grade II
License and a Visa 5.11b/c PG13 Sport, Alpine, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II
Red Dawn 5.11c Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 480 feet, Grade II
Parallel Universe 5.12a/b Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 475 feet, Grade II
Featured Route For Pino Wall
Red Dawn 5.11c NM : Sandia Mountains : ... : Pino Wall
A great trad route and, as usual for this aspect of the Pino Wall, excellent stone abounds. Low on the route, we found an ancient, symmetrical hex slung with 1" webbing that looks like someone rapped off it in the 1970s. If anyone remembers trying this line before, feel free to chime in with their experiences. Pitch 1 - Climb 30 ft up passing a small fir tree, stepping slightly left in a small trough to a large horizontal dike of compact red rock. Head straight up the hand crack and interestin...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
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