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Pinnacles National Monument

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Pinnacles National Monument  


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Location: 36.5004, -121.202 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: mungeclimber on Dec 13, 2002
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Juvenile Striped Racer, seen near the Discovery Wa...

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Description 

Pinnacles is a Bay Area Climber's nightmare or savior, depending one's interest. Its close proximity to the South Bay and moderate weather during the Winter months make it very popular with the Bay Area climbing community, but at the same time the area is known for its "less than granite quality" rock. Some despise its chossy character, others revel in its history of adventure and "ground up" ethic.

As a former haunt of some of Yosemite's children of the Golden Age of climbing, the names of Roper, Bridwell, Bates are associated with this area. It has bolt-protected face climbs due to the lack of good cracks, as well as more traditional climbs.

An Intro to the Pinnacles


by Steven Dalleske

Tap tap tap, tap tap tap, I can always tell when an experienced Pinnacles climber is in the area. The fact is you can usually hear them long before you see them. Tapping the holds with our knuckles is just one of the unique techniques we have learned to rely on over the years of scrambling across this unique rock. For me, the farther I am from my last protection the more I'm tapping and if I'm really wigging out you'll see me start kicking at the foot holds too. What I'm doing is listening for a nice sharp report from the knob or cobble in question. Something that will let me know how well it's attached to the cliff and how much I want to rely on it. A dull or hollow sound above a fall you're not interested in taking and you should be looking for alternatives. If there are no viable alternatives, its time to decide how bad you want the route and if you decide to push on you'll, at the least, have a better understanding what your getting into. Keep in mind, though, that if you seriously tried to avoid all the loose rock at the Pinns, you're route selection would be seriously limited if not non-existent. Climbing the Pinnacles rock is an art, it's something that takes an acquired taste to really appreciate, but once mastered it's an art that will give you new confidence when visiting other more sound climbing areas.

Another good habit to adopt when negotiating the minefields that are the Pinnacles rock is to try to avoid stepping on the knobs. This is because, when a weighted knob pops, under your foot you'll be at the end of your rope or bouncing off a ledge before you know it. Consequently, a seasoned Pinn-head will, given the opportunity, consciously avoid using the knobs for footholds and instead seek features in the matrix to find a purchase for the foot. The matrix being like a gritty mortar that holds the cobbles in place tends to crumble rather than pop as the knobs do and this can, in some cases, give you the extra second needed to make a decision and hopefully an escape. Eventually you'll find yourself spreading your weight out on the rock, moving like a cat, taking full advantage of stances, exploring and carefully planning your sequences, appreciating a sound bolt more than ever before, clipping anchors with a relief that overwhelms and if you can learn love this careful style of climbing, you've become a true Pinn-head.

Because of the unique rock here, soloing and bouldering at the Pinns, though not unheard of, is considered foolhardy, if not suicidal. Ironically, most of the moderate routes here have serious run outs on them which, coupled with our not so lovable rock makes even the easiest route a serious endeavor. You must always be conscious of your potential falls, this is not a place to haphazardly romp around 20' out from the last bolt. Since the knobs pop on all routes equally, you are more likely to get hurt on something easy like the Portent, 5.6 with it's 20' to 30' run outs than something a little harder like Cantaloupe Death, 5.10c which has mere 6' to 8' run outs. In most cases the easier routes were put up 30, 40 or even 50 years ago in a bygone time when climbing was a more dangerous animal, commitment was at a premium and protection was sub standard by modern ideals. Consequently if you are not already familiar with the rock here, I don't consider the Pinnacles a great place to teach yourself leading. Over the last decade the bolts on most of the more popular routes have been brought up to modern standards, but the run outs, long and true, are and always will remain.


Getting There 

Depending on whether one is going to the more popular East District or the West District will dictate how to get there.

For the East District, go South on 101 to Hwy 25 to Hollister. Go South out of Hollister for several miles until you reach the turn off for Pinnacles National Monument. Go past the campground and entrance station (fee) and continue to where you can go left over the bridge instead of to the Chalone Picnic area. Park at the end of the road, unless the small lot is full. On occasion if you arrive late you may need to take the shuttle in from the lower parking lot.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.5 miles from here

170 Total Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',71],['2 Stars',71],['1 Star',20],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',25],['5.7',15],['5.8',30],['5.9',25],['5.10',40],['5.11',22],['5.12',8],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',2],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Pinnacles National Monument:
Costanoan   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Sport, 4 pitches   West Side : The Citadel
Portent   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 120'   East Side : Discovery Wall
Swallow Crack   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   East Side : Discovery Wall
Rat Race   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   East Side : Tourist Trap
Old Original   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 6 pitches, 800'   West Side : Machete Ridge Area
Liebacker's Lullaby   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 240'   East Side : The Yaks
Ordeal   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   East Side : Discovery Wall
Feather Canyon   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, Sport, 9 pitches, 1000'   High Peaks
The Wet Kiss   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   East Side : Discovery Wall
Lava Falls   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   West Side : The Balconies
Shake-N-Bake   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   West Side : The Balconies
Subterranean Tango   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   East Side : Monolith
Stupendous Man   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   East Side : Discovery Wall
Cuidado!   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 5 pitches, 500'   West Side : Machete Ridge Area
Cantaloupe Death   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   East Side : Monolith
Split Infinity   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   East Side : The Yaks
Post Orgasmic Depression   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   East Side : Monolith
The Verdict (direct)   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   East Side : Discovery Wall
Foreplay   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   East Side : Monolith
Ranger Bolts (aka Move over Rover)   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   East Side : Monolith
Browse More Classics in Pinnacles National Monument

Featured Route For Pinnacles National Monument
Ladies and Gentlemen...Lava Falls.

Lava Falls 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a CA : Central Coast : ... : The Balconies
Two magnificent pitches of wild stemming up a spooky black groove on the Balconies. Pitch one involves steep knob climbing between sometimes sparsely-placed bolts. An occasional knob can be tied off, but the steep crux comes between a gap in protection opportunities. Pitch 2 requires more hip-cramping stemming up the water-hardened chute. This pitch is not to be missed. At the time of this writing, not all bolts are inspiring, and some loose rock is present....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Pinnacles National Monument Slideshow Add Photo
One of the Monument's most vocal residents, the Acorn Woodpecker.
One of the Monument's most vocal residents, the Ac...
What? <br />Photo by Blitzo.
What?
Photo by Blitzo.
Reservoir Refelctions. <br />photo by Tom Slater <br /><a href='http://slatervision.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >slatervision.com</a>
Reservoir Refelctions.
photo by Tom Slater
slaterv...
Water level is low in the reservoir
Water level is low in the reservoir
The Reservoir. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
The Reservoir.
Photo by Blitzo.
East Side, The Pinnacles N.M. <br />photo Tom Slater <br /><a href='http://slatervision.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >slatervision.com</a>
East Side, The Pinnacles N.M.
photo Tom Slater
sla...
1955 Pinnacles guide
1955 Pinnacles guide
Blue sky, glassy water, at the reservoir
Blue sky, glassy water, at the reservoir
4th Classin'It.
4th Classin'It.
Pinnacles guide 1974
Pinnacles guide 1974
Pretty OK
Pretty OK
Steve Roper's 1966 Pinnacles guide.
Steve Roper's 1966 Pinnacles guide.
Wild Turkey at Pinnacles. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Wild Turkey at Pinnacles.
Photo by Blitzo.
Clear sky, sunshine , at the reservoir
Clear sky, sunshine , at the reservoir
My father's Pinnacles guidebook collection -- next I'll try to scan his old photos and  post  them
My father's Pinnacles guidebook collection -- next...
Pinnacles guide, 1986
Pinnacles guide, 1986
This pine has very large pine cones!
This pine has very large pine cones!
1983 Pinnacles guide by  Gagner
1983 Pinnacles guide by Gagner
Billy finds one very unfortunate Western Coachwhip snake on the road in to Pinnacles National Monument.
Billy finds one very unfortunate Western Coachwhip...
California condor flying above us at Pinnacles
California condor flying above us at Pinnacles
Juvenile Striped Racer, seen near the Discovery Wall in Pinnacles National Monument.
Juvenile Striped Racer, seen near the Discovery Wa...
Emerging from one of several tunnels on the trail
Emerging from one of several tunnels on the trail

Comments on Pinnacles National Monument Add Comment
Show which comments
By Blitzo
Sep 25, 2006
Pinnacles is my least favorite climbing area. The place is nice, but i just don't think the climbing is that great.
By Kevin Friedrich
Oct 29, 2008
Pinnacle's Climbing: Historic and Distinguished.
By munge
Sep 28, 2009
Pinnacles forum...

mudncrud.com/forums/
By Brian in SLC
Nov 6, 2009
Quote from Toula's Rock-n-Road, from a non-local: "You know what your poop looks like after eating corn-on-the-cob and a Payday bar? It looks like Pinnacles National Monument."

Classic.
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Dec 26, 2009
Pinnacles Climbing + Big Sur = Best Winter Road Trip Ever!!!
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 10, 2013
Pinnacles is now a National Park, according to today's news stories . Congratulations, Pinnacles!

How come "Twinkle Toes Traverse" isn't in here? It's a classic! Or is it in here under some other name? I'd add it myself, except I don't remember much having done it so long ago.
By farley
Feb 18, 2014
Sweet is mountain project! Psyched to be signed up. Watching olympic athletes just inspires to get stronger and more fit. Perfect motivator for a climber. Upon some research of Castle rock and Pinnacles, both within range of Santa Cruz, its difficult to be encouraged or discouraged. The descriptions range from fun and challenging to dangerous and questionable. Love to hear more about these areas.
By Jonathan Lagoe
Aug 18, 2014
One of the worst places I have climbed anywhere in the world