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Start below a 10'-high pointed pinnacle of rock at the same place where the route Left Edge begins.This is about 20' right of Prelude to King Kong and is directly below the right side of the Super Squeeze alcove and the start of The Umph Slot.
The route climbs a finger, hand, and fist crack just right of the pinnacle.
Climb up to the right of the pinnacle, then work up the finger crack while stemming as high as possible off the pinnacle. Step right to the crack and make difficult moves as the crack widens to hand and fist size.
Above, you have several choices for a belay:
1. Continue straight up and belay and the start of The Umph Slot.
2. Continue up and left and climb a slab to the belay on Super Squeeze.
3. Traverse left and belay at the start of Gorilla's Delight.
Continue with any of these routes, or rap 80' from the anchor on Super Squeeze.
If you chose option #3 for the belay, you can also finish on Left Edge.
It may also be possible to exit right and continue on The Owl.
Rossiter's guidebook also shows a 10a variation using a crack left of the finger crack.
Worthwhile if you're looking for a short, well-protected harder start to any of the above routes.
Small wired nuts to #3 Camalot. Aliens (green to orange) were very useful.
|By Dane Casterson|
Jun 4, 2007
Make sure you nail the initial moves and place a lot of pro if you are shaky at all at this grade. I busted off the first moves, and I almost left my chin on a sharp ledge that you start on by the pillar. Felt tough.
|By Andy Hansen|
From: Longmont, Colorado
Nov 25, 2012
Perhaps I climbed this "wrong", but I stepped off the pinnacle and used a twin crack system to reach a fist crack. Upon reaching the fist crack, this is where I thought the crux moves were but in no way were they 11a moves. Perhaps a single move of 5.10 climbing was encountered while pulling out of the fist crack. Not really worth the time to lead but good enough just to squeeze in another route while cragging off the anchors below Super Squeeze.