Pinnacle  5.11a

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Consensus:  5.10c [details] FA:  Rob Candelaria, 1975. Submitted By:  Ron Olsen on Oct 13, 2005 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Start below a 10'-high pointed pinnacle of rock at the same place where the route Left Edge begins.This is about 20' right of Prelude to King Kong and is directly below the right side of the Super Squeeze alcove and the start of The Umph Slot.

The route climbs a finger, hand, and fist crack just right of the pinnacle.

Climb up to the right of the pinnacle, then work up the finger crack while stemming as high as possible off the pinnacle. Step right to the crack and make difficult moves as the crack widens to hand and fist size.

Above, you have several choices for a belay:

1. Continue straight up and belay and the start of The Umph Slot.

2. Continue up and left and climb a slab to the belay on Super Squeeze.

3. Traverse left and belay at the start of Gorilla's Delight.

Continue with any of these routes, or rap 80' from the anchor on Super Squeeze.

If you chose option #3 for the belay, you can also finish on Left Edge.

It may also be possible to exit right and continue on The Owl.

Rossiter's guidebook also shows a 10a variation using a crack left of the finger crack.

Worthwhile if you're looking for a short, well-protected harder start to any of the above routes.

Protection 

Small wired nuts to #3 Camalot. Aliens (green to orange) were very useful.