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Pinky's Buttress

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Full Metal Jackfish S 

Pinky's Buttress  


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Location: 19.69161, -79.85166 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 44
Administrators: John Byrnes, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: CHRIS.T on Mar 13, 2014
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Description 

This wall is located a few hundred yards east of Dixon's Wall, and currently has two bolted routes.

Both routes established by Jeff Achey in 2013.
The left route is short(4 bolts?) and steep, and currently an open project.
The right route is 'Full Metal Jackfish' and is a classic long 5.12.

This beautiful 100 foot wall can be seen from the main road, and begs to be climbed.


Getting There 

To get there, park at the school as for Dixon's Wall. Walk east for about a minute until you come to Neptune's Way. Turn right on Neptune's Way and take the road to it's end. Pass the chicken coops on the right and the wall is just behind it.

The wall is very close to a house owned by 'Mr. Ernie' who requests that you knock and let him know you will be climbing there if he is home. It is the last house on the left of Neptune's Way.

Climbing Season

Traffic By Month

1 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Pinky's Buttress

Full Metal Jackfish 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  North America : Cayman Brac : Pinky's Buttress
This is the obvious line on Pinky's Buttress that climbs nearly to the top of the wall on great stone. A powerful, steep crux start leads to awesome 5.11 pocket pulling on the white wall above to gain the anchor. After firing the crux start, a few hard sections higher on the route will keep you on your toes, and a tricky finish demands attention as well. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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