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Pinky Paralysis 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: FP(cleaned): Mark Chapman, Kevin Worrall, by 1975 FA: John Bachar, Jim Bridwell, 1975
Page Views: 1,221
Submitted By: Osprey Overhang on Dec 1, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Short, but good and splitter. And hard

Description 

Formerly known as A Great Day In Baseball, this stellar crack is normally done in two short pitches or one long pitch if you have it dialed.

Pitch one climbs a broken crack up to a roof. Good moves take you out left. Jam your way to the chains.

Pitch two climbs a sustained thin finger crack with slightly painful locks and small edges for your feet.

Location 

From Jaw Bone, Continue right and up 50 feet until the trail breaks left. Follow the trail left until you reach a broken crack under a roof. This is the start.

Protection 

Bring gear to 3 inches, plus slings, and extra tcu's and/or small aliens. Rappel from chains once with two ropes or twice with one rope.


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By Alexey
From: San Jose
Dec 2, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

What is the most usfull size aliens for second pitch crux? green/yellow/red?
By Rob Dillon
Dec 6, 2009

It tapers down as you climb it; bring 'em all.

With a 70 and some long slings for the start I think it's a reasonable half-rope pitch.
By Osprey Overhang
From: ...
Dec 11, 2009

Alexey - Rob is dead on with his info. You may get a red in off the chains, I can't remember exactly. Then nothing but second and first knuckle locks the whole way. Totally solid locks. I'd also like to add that this is an excellent entry climb to break into .11c fingers for the down canyon climbs. So just get on this one.
When you see that straight line on a Donald Ried topo with "5.11c fingers" next to it, you know it is going to be good! With that said, I normally don't tape up for Yosemite, but for this one I do tape a few fingers. Its rougher than Butterballs but smoother than say, the top section of Mirage.
By Rob Dillon
Dec 17, 2009

Vastly easier than Butterballs, if that helps yer psyche any.

[unless you have big swollen kielbasas sprouting from your palms]
By Alexey
From: San Jose
Jan 18, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

"Vastly easier than Butterballs"-agree with this Rob .
Just climbed it day ago, thanks Rob and Marc to encouraging downrate of the route -otherwise I would not jump on it.
I've never onsite in the Valley anything harder than 10d before , so I was very surprise by myself when I reached anchors of this short ( ~35 feet) second pitch and said to my wife - I am 11c climber, ha ha.
Not very long, since Vinita climbed it quickly and said - "it is about same or little bit easier than Sherry crack". So she downgraded it to 10c with her very small fingers, but for my average hands- 11a/b?
I used 3 green aliens, 2 yellow 2 red and one green cam junior.
The first pitch is very good on this climb too.
By Rob Dillon
Jan 24, 2010

Well shit, it sounds like 5.9 + now...
By Cristiano Pereira
Apr 6, 2014

One can rapel from the top of the second pitch to the ground with a 70m. Just did it a day ago.
By BFK
From: San Francisco
Apr 9, 2014
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Best finger crack I've been on,... even though it's only 40'.
By Grover
Apr 12, 2014

I taped up all of my fingers for this pitch, just for size. Even with a nice tape job I was still getting sinker locks. Pinky felt like 10d to me, it might be 11a for some one with big fingers. Butterballs is a grade harder for sure.