Pinky Lee 5.10d
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | Unknown, FFA: Matt Cox, 1976 |
| Submitted By: | C Miller on Mar 3, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: Pinky Lee (5.11a)
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Description Seen from afar as a striking thin crack, closer inspection reveals this to be a mere seam at the start with somewhat marginal protection. Once past the bouldery start the angle relents and the seam widens into a nice finger crack that eats gear and, unfortunately, is over far too quickly.
Seldom led due to the committing nature of the crux moves - a fall will likely plant you on the sloping ledge at the base, but easily toproped from the anchors of nearby Swing Low.
Location Located just to the right of Swing Low and two routes to the right of R. A. F.
Protection thin to 2", bolted anchor/rap (shared with Swing Low)
BETA PHOTO: Close-up view of the crux section on Pinky Lee (5....
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Me on Pinky Lee in the mid 80's. Shot by Rob Mulli...
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Brooke Peterson climbs through the crux sequence o...
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BETA PHOTO: A clos(er)up view with a bit more detail shown.
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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Mar 4, 2006
rating: 5.11a
| Realistically 5.11a... |
By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Oct 15, 2007
rating: 5.10d
| Glad someone said it. Felt a lot harder than 10d to me.
Worth TR-ing if you're coming off of R.A.F. or Swing low. |
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Oct 18, 2008
| Indeed, this route is over far too quickly. Not a trivial lead, but not particularly bad as well. I found the crux quite protectable, actually. I was able to equalize a nut and a finger-sized cam in the second pod, providing decent protection through the initial tough moves.
Oh, and for the record, this route is 5.11a. |
By john strand
From: southern colo
Dec 15, 2009
| Gee- I'm sure glad this route got upgraded. In 82 when I did it it was 10C. Pro seemed OK. |
By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Jan 18, 2010
rating: 5.10d
| Came back a couple years later with a whole lot more crack experience. I'm going back to .10d. Really just a move or two. Felt good to feel such a difference. |
By Rodger Raubach
Sep 8, 2010
| Watched Bachar free solo Big Moe while belaying my wife on this climb. She was on top rope trying to work her way to higher grades, and was successful here. She thought it was all of 10d. I didn't even try the climb as my fingertips were already abraded bloody by JTree rock. |
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