Pinky and the Brain 

This route is rated in Todd's "5.8 deserves more respect" 5.8 rating. More like 5.9 or 10a. Similar to the "5.8's" at Outer Mongolia.

Respectfully, i think you are very, very wrong about this climbs grade and the one's in mongolia, ive done this climb a number of times and there is no hint of 5.9 or 10a. what about all the dave evans sandbags around jtree? this climb is great a great lead for the begining 5.8 leader, super safe and kinda long.

This route was called "George's TR" in Alan Bartlett's Pinto Basin guide (it was a top rope route; FA: George Zelenz, 90). It was later bolted and led by: Todd Gordon, Grant Hiskes & Suzette Olsen. Originally rated 5.10, it is probably solid 5.9. 10 bolts, 1 fixed pin(?) and 2 bolt anchor. So DE's comments about the rating are probably right on.


2 out of 5

okay to end the argument respectfully, Randy i notice that when you say the route is 5.9 you use the word "probably" i take this to mean you have not done the route, if you have im sorry but if you call that solid 5.9 there are a lot of grades you need to fix in your guide. if you want to go do the route ill go out there with you any time, you posted all the other info Todd gave you so why dont you belive him when he says it's 5.8?

just did this route. I feel this route is 5.8 if you climb the crack atthe start. If you stick to the face it may go 5.9. the tricky step across at the fourth bolt is probably 5.8, although I felt there was a move up higher that was actually harder

For what it's worth, my original TR went a bit right of the bolted route. Two different routes?

Who cares.

It's all 5.0 till you fall.

George Zelenz

Fair to poor rock quality. Over-bolted IMHO.

5.10b4me, ratings are intended to give an on-site leader an idea how hard something is. Following or top roping is easier than leading (although a route with that much pro isn't much different for leader or follower). Also repeating a route makes it easier. I had just noticed that the picture showed you on a tr. Had you just led it on site and called it 5.8? If so your rating stands and I apoligize.

I have led this route well over ten times and have yet to find it to be more than 5.8. Many factors are involved in ratings. Height,weight,experience etc... being but a few. The day I "Onsighted" this I felt it was 5.8. I have heard and read others feel it is harder. I see that Randy feels that DE's rating it harder appears to be respected. Interesting to me, I consider all of the climbers that rate it higher than I do better and more accomplished than myself in the climbing world. Maybe the climb fits my style, height,weight better? Whatever the case, give it a shot.

We climbed this today and Andrew led On Sight. I followed on TR and I did not see a 5.9 move on there let alone 5.8 but then again what do I know all I climb is Josh sandbags. All the moves are solid except the crux which may go 5.9 height dependent. Other than that nice work Todd. All the bolts are exactly where you want them. If this was an old top rope then why is there a bunch of old bolt holes and the BD piton in there.