|The Red Slab
The testpiece on the Red Slab. Pink Slip starts about 15 feet to the left of the small ramp on the right side of the crag. The route shares an anchor with Slip and Slide and MK '74, making the top rope an easy proposition. Pink Slip actually converges with Slip and Slide at about the 50 foot mark. It enters common ground at the traverse on Slip and Slide. Thin and technical right off the ground, Pink Slip heads up on rather shallow rounded smears. The crux arises well before the convergence point and involves some ultra thin smearing hands and feet that trend to the right a short way. Unlike Slip and Slide, this is a very distinct crux, and it really seems rather improbable. Place a lot of trust in those feet. Two stars for excellent stone, continuity, and fine climbing.
QDs only. A 60 m rope does the job along with 8 - 9 draws.
|By Harald Harb|
Oct 18, 2008
Iím confused, there are anchors, two chains with rings well rusted, at the very top of this climb on black rock, hidden until you are on top. Are these the original anchors? The climb to the right has a set of anchors, new ones, in a slot, but two bolts lower. The 5.12 seems to be missing the second to last clip from the very top, super run out. The missing clip is not the last clip; it is the clip before last. Am I totally off course on this route or has any on else noticed this?
Very bouldery technical at the bottom, some nice thin face moves in the middle, over some sloppy ledges, then you get lost. No more bolts. I'll bring some small cams next time just be sure.