|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]|
|FA:||Alan Nelson and Kurt Smith, 1990|
|Submitted By:||Richard M. Wright on May 5, 2001|
|Raptor Closures - 2016 Tunnel 2 Closure Lifted / Upper Canyon Road closures MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Pink Slip||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Harald Harb
Oct 18, 2008
I'm confused, there are anchors, two chains with rings well rusted, at the very top of this climb on black rock, hidden until you are on top. Are these the original anchors? The climb to the right has a set of anchors, new ones, in a slot, but two bolts lower. The 5.12 seems to be missing the second to last clip from the very top, super run out. The missing clip is not the last clip; it is the clip before last. Am I totally off course on this route or has any on else noticed this?
Very bouldery technical at the bottom, some nice thin face moves in the middle, over some sloppy ledges, then you get lost. No more bolts. I'll bring some small cams next time just be sure.
By Dwight Jugornot
From: Arvada, Co.
May 4, 2016
|A long, fun and sustained route with very thin and very balancy crux moves. The bottom felt thin, fingery, & pumpy (mid-11), then you get a good stance just below the fat diagonal crack. Getting established on the face above and making the moves up and across (12b) to the route on the right is the crux. The 10d, while easier, is still involved. The route was reasonably well-protected at the crux. he 10d was wet when we did it and fairly run-out on the top. No point in taking gear as the opportunities are sparse and the pump is too great.|