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Black Rose
Routes Sorted
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A Rose is a Rose T,TR 
Attention K-Mart Shoppers T 
Black Magic Woman S,TR 
Black Rose S,TR 
Dynamite Crack T 
Fat Hippos S 
Pink Canoe S 
Prescription T,TR 
Red Rose T 
Tip-A-Canoe T 
Yuji Feet S 

Pink Canoe 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 2,088
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Jul 16, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (63)
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Black Rose

Description 

An exciting, well-protected line following a natural weakness up a steep quartzite face.

Fun face climbing with sidepulls, small crimps, optional slopers, and mostly small, somewhat tricky footholds.

Starts with jugs and big feet and quickly changes to thinner climbing after the first bolt. After the fifth bolt it's back to jugs and easy cruising to the anchors.


Protection 

5 bolts, double-ring anchors.


Location 

This route is found on the right side of the Black Rose area, and is the left of the two bolted lines.



Photos of Pink Canoe Slideshow Add Photo
Perin Blanchard on <em>Pink Canoe</em>.
Perin Blanchard on Pink Canoe.
1 Yuji Feet 5.11c <br />2 <a href='/v/black-rose/106053868'>Black Rose</a> 5.10d <br />3 <a href='/v/a-rose-is-a-rose/105742061'>A Rose is a Rose</a> 5.10a <br />4 <a href='/v/black-magic-woman/106144464'>Black Magic Woman</a> 5.11b <br />5 <a href='/v/attention-k-mart-shoppers/106149202'>Attention K-Mart Shoppers</a> 5.9 <br />6 <a href='/v/dynamite-crack/106149198'>Dynamite Crack</a> 5.6 <br />7 <a href='/v/pink-canoe/105741695'>Pink Canoe</a> 5.10a <br />8 <a href='/v/fat-hippos/105742088'>Fat Hippos</a> 5.12a <br />9 <a href='/v/tip-a-canoe/105876723'>Tip-A-Canoe</a> 5.6 <br />9a <a href='/v/tip-a-canoe/105876723'>Tip-A-Canoe</a> 5.6
BETA PHOTO: 1 Yuji Feet 5.11c
2 Black Rose 5.10d
...
Pink Canoe at the crux
Pink Canoe at the crux
Relaxing at the chains
Relaxing at the chains
Comments on Pink Canoe Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 9, 2012
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
May 21, 2008

I wonder what this was like back in the day...back before it had bolts. Or did it always...?

By Christopher Sorensen
From: Provo, UT
Apr 28, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I thought this climb was tons of fun. I just wish it were twice as long.

By Thomas Holmes
From: Utah
Jul 24, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

really fun climb but its really short. crux was the 4th bolt for me. on top rope i went right over but positioning for clipping took me a few.

By Christopher Sorensen
From: Provo, UT
Aug 2, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Doing this again, I agree, the crux is getting to the fourth bolt, the only spot where there aren't really good holds in the crack. This climb is a lot of fun.

By Lionel
From: Provo, UT
Sep 5, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great climb. the foot holds are small but are useable. the crack is great for a left hand hold and once you get past the crux (which is around the 4th bolt) there are gorgeous hand holds towards the top. very fun climb

By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Aug 21, 2010

The little block at the start (at the top of the double cracks) is a little wobbly.

By Tyson Taylor
Mar 3, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

My first lead of this season. This used to be one of my favorites but it had me nervous this year. Ever come back and wonder if all your winter training did any good? The wobbly hold still seems pretty solid.

By BJB
From: Austin, TX
May 25, 2011

Great but short. The crux is a little disconcerting getting to the fourth bolt. I've found that if you just move confidently and quickly you can get your hand to a better hold and then clip it with ease but it involves getting higher than most people might be comfortable with.

By Eli Harry
Oct 20, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The loose block is still holding strong. We've climbed this one a lot in the past month. The crux has been beating me over and over and I finally got it clean today!
(SPOILER ALERT!) for me I ended up smearing that right foot and instead of trying like crazy to hang onto that right-hand nub simply move your right hand left into the crack above the bolt, clip when you can after you get more steady. Seen lots of folks struggle with this one, lots of falls on it, and I've taken 2 myself!

By Rob Job
From: Provo, UT
May 2, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Fun climb. Feet disappear in the middle. Good fun.

By Canyon Copa
May 29, 2012

Great warm up for those just getting back into lead climbing. Really fun crux section at the fourth bolt.

By Mark Lewis
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 9, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Fun slab climbing, if that's your thing. Thin hand holds; good foot work and some nerve-wracking smearing will get you to the top. Good bolt placement, all new, shiny hardware. Is in the shade during July until around Noon. After that it's exposed and hot, time to move up the canyon to some of the shady crags.