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Swamp Slabs
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Conkomatic 
Debut 
Dislocation Buttress 
Dislocation Direct 
Green Dagger 
Green Horns 
Pinhead 
Tread Gently 
Unsorted Routes:

Pinhead 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Larry Treiber, Chuck Parker, John Byrd
Page Views: 530
Submitted By: Karl K on Nov 8, 2009
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Description 

P1- ?did not climb
P2 - from first belay on Green Horns/Green Dagger traverse left 20' to vertical crack; climb until this peters out and move right to rounded ledge (5.9 & ~scary); straight up face past a bolt (5.9PG) or work left after bolt to a crack (5.10-?; PG)
P3 - ?


Location 

P1 is up face to crack to face about 30' right of the pine tree.
Walkoff to climbers left.


Protection 

Mostly thin pro required



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By Joel Longo
Nov 11, 2009

The first pitch I feel was maybe 5.8 or 5.9 with sparse placements. The move right on the second pitch to the rounded ledge I feel was 10+/11- (compared to the slabs on the right section). I may have traversed too high though. The slab above the ledge is some fun spicy friction slab. I believe the third pitch is the final pitch of Greenhorns.

When I climbed this I ended pitch one to the right of the rounded ledge, then climbed the slab and the finish of Greenhorns. I would suggest however linking all the way to the top of the slab above the rounded ledge for a fun long first pitch.

By KyleKent
Nov 13, 2009

I agree with Joel, the move out to the ledge where it rounds over feels like 10+/11a. It was harder than any move on Thin Slice or Slide Action Traction, both of which get 10+. I wouldn't reccommend that last pitch past the bolt until we get it replaced; one bolt for the whole pitch of what appears to be insecure climbing.

By Karl K
From: Phoenix, AZ
Nov 13, 2009

I thought the traverse move was solid GM 5.9 (meaning I would have rated it 10b if it were anywhere else). That said, both I (at 6'2") and my wife (at 5'2") thought it was 5.9 - so at least it is not height dependent. Just very thin and scary.
I also second the idea that the face above this rounded ledge is quite runnout and that the lone bolt is less than stellar.

By Joel Longo
Nov 14, 2009

I believe the topo shows that slab having two bolts where the other bolt is supposed to be higher than the one already there. When I was climbing however I didn't see any obvious remains of an old bolt.

By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
Nov 22, 2009

A good moderate link-up is Pinhead -> Conkomatic

By Kayle
Sep 20, 2010

The traverse move was definitely exciting. After falling, it felt like VO+ at groom creek, the scare factor being significantly reduced. Absolutely recomended for on an early season morning, shady and crisp!

By Bobby Treadwell
From: Prescott, AZ
Sep 18, 2012

this route was awesome! that last bolt was hilarious! still only one bolt at the top where the topo says two.