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(3) Red Wall
Routes Sorted
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Anastasia TR 
Arcturus TR 
Classic Crack T 
Conspiracy (aka Kashmir Direct), The S 
Critical Mass S 
Hard Body S 
Hit the Highway T,S 
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Mr. Bentley TR 
No Friction T 
On the Loose TR 
Physical Graffiti T 
Pinhead S 
Red Eye S 
Sheer Energy T,S 
Sheer Stress T 
Shoot From the Hip T,S 
Thai Stick S 
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Pinhead 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: S. Mrazek, C. Buzzard 1991
Page Views: 1,772
Submitted By: Philip Scoles on Oct 31, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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2nd pitch of sheer stress anchor

Description 

Climb the upper headwall of sheer stress. Crimps and hard lockoff's take you to the top.

Location 

Above sheer stress.

Protection 

gear for sheer stress, bolts.


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By phillip
Jun 23, 2007
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

I just revisited this route and I can say that it is certainly one of the top ten Portland-area sport climbs. Maybe state?! Good holds on beautiful, solid, grippy rock- what more could you ask for?
By Ian G.
From: PDX, OR
Apr 16, 2010
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

The third bolt seemed oddly hard to clip for a shorter person (and I'm 5'9"). Not a big deal, but your waaaay past your last clip. Agree with the above; for the grade, there is no better route in the PDX area. Super clean falls, so it's a good one to push your limit!
By Eric Schnepel
From: Portland
May 25, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

This route is rad. Without a doubt the best thing I have climbed around Portland. Great movement and super aesthetic rock, this thing would be a classic anywhere. Seemed to be on the upper end of 5.11d and harder than Kashmir.
By another Chad
May 3, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Yep, great route. Technical, exposed and captivating. It took a while to figure out an efficient way to move between the 3rd and 4th bolts but once unlocked the route felt easier than Kashmir.


Chad
By phillip
Apr 2, 2014
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Thanks to whomever for the solid rebolting work!
By Ryan Ried
From: Portland OR
May 20, 2014

This thing is amazing! Best climb I've been on in Portland for sure. Does anyone know if you can lower to the ground with a 70m?
By another Chad
May 21, 2014
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Ryan, you can lower to the ground with a 60m rope from the top of Pinhead and have a couple feet to spare. That is if you are getting up there via Sheer Stress. Approaching from Sheer Energy or anything else probably wouldn't work with a 60m.


Chad
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