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"Big Corner" T 
30 Seconds Over Potash T 
A Fistful of Potash T 
Another Roadside Distraction T 
Arc Angel S 
Astro Lad T,TR 
Baby Blue T 
Bad Moki Roof T 
Banana Peel S 
Best Route Ever T 
Big Sky Mud Flaps S 
Blowing Chunks T,S 
Broken Engagements 
Brown Banana S 
Brownie T 
Campground Crack T 
Chaco-late Chunk S,TR 
Chemistry T 
ChrisCross TR 
Dark Horse S 
Desp-Arete S 
Diplomatic Immunity T 
Dr Strange Flake T,S 
Dunn Copeland T 
East Of Wrath T 
Eat the Rich T 
El Cracko Diablo T 
El Face-o Diablo S,TR 
Enigma Campground Route T 
Eyes of Falina T 
Fernando S 
Fist Full of Potash Direct TR 
Flakes of Bongo TR 
Flakes of Wrath T,TR 
Flakes of Wrath Direct T 
Frogs of a Feather T 
Good, The Bad, and the Potash, The T 
Grama and the Green Suede Shoes T 
Half Pipe T 
Hidden Message S,TR 
Holey Moley S 
Horizontal Mambo T,S 
I Love Loosey S 
Jacob's Ladder S 
Jug Roof T 
Just Another Pretty Face S 
Knapping With The Alien S 
Lacto Mangulation T,TR 
Last Tango in Potash T,S 
Lip Balm Addict T,TR 
Little Tufa's T,S 
Lizard Skills S 
Lucy in the Sky with Potash T 
Man After Midnight S 
Mephistopheles  T 
Middle Child Syndrome (Unknown) T,S 
Midnight Frightening T 
Mini Me T 
Mini Skirt S 
Mississippi High Step S 
Mother Trucker T 
Neopolitan S,TR 
Nervous in Suburbia S 
No Fly Zone T,S 
Pedigree Poodles T 
Pinhead T 
Points West T,S 
Potash Bong Hit T 
Potash Sanction T 
Potstash S 
Practical Religion  S 
Puppy Love T,S 
Rhino Might S 
Right Side In  T 
Ring Pin T 
Room With A View T 
Room With A View (free) S 
Sand and Steel T 
School Room Slabs TR 
Seam As It Ever Was T 
Seibernetics T 
Shadowfax S 
She-la the Peeler S 
Shoot Up or Shut Up T,S 
Skeletonic T,S 
Slab Route S 
Smoke Filled Rooms T 
Snakes Slab S 
Something Nasty T 
Static Cling T 
Steel Your Face S 
Stego Slab S 
Summit Chimney T 
Tastes Like Chicken S,TR 
Tired of Talus T 
Top 40 T 
Twittin Shinkies T,S 
Two Sides of Purple, The T 
Under the Boardwalk  S 
Unemployment Line T,S 
Unknown S 
Visible Panty Line T 
Wake of the Flood T 
Walk on the Wide Side 
Warsteiner S 
Willow Whip T 
Yogini S,TR 
Zig Zag S 


YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: FFA: Charlie Fowler, Franci Stagi
Page Views: 1,873
Submitted By: J. Hickok on Jul 6, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (69)
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just leaving the ground on pinhead

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


Great lead for the 5.10 climber that will challenge you to stay on top of gear placements through the bottom. It is located right of Astro Lad and is the next route immediately right of Potash Sanction. Make your way up using an array of cracks and features. Sometime you'll probably want to angle left to the dihedral. Tricky moves set you up for a very short chimney session and then the reach out and around from the chimney to clip the anchors. To bypass the chimney move right and then left again above/around it until you can stand on the ledge in the chimney and reach anchors. There is a second pitch, but it hardly seems worth the effort. Anybody comment? As always on Wall Street use your own hardware while your crew topropes this.


All gear, no bolts or pitons. You can probably bring a single set.

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By rapchopper
Nov 10, 2009

This is totally incorrect information as far as the anchors on Potash. The are replaced regularly and are not webbing on most. We TR these anchors everyday. Please use draws if you are going to have large parties on the same rope. By the way there is no mystery at all that this is Pinhead....
By erik rieger
From: Ridgway, CO
May 6, 2012

this route is pretty good, you can climb to the upper anchors in the right facing corner and still lower with a 60. there's a bolt where it gets thin up high.
By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
Nov 26, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I really enjoyed this route- it had good feet! It climbed a lot like a non-desert route which was a fun change of pace. The difficulty seemed to stay pretty moderate with one or two more strenuous moves at the top.

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