Jon Wilson bouldering on "Chubby Bunny" ...
This is an obscure little area up CO Hwy 72 (Coal Creek Canyon) for the wandering types. This area sports mostly 1 pitch routes described areas here called Zebra Rock and Pinecliffe. There is a mix of traditional, sport, and mixed routes here. There is room for more. Enjoyable routes here include Longhaired Freaky People 10a, Nocturnal Leg Muscle Cramp 11-, Hardman Jr. 11, Pica 12c, Knuckle Sandwich 10+.
You can not park on the side of the road in Gilpin County according to an ordinance. The sherriffs have the right to tow away vehicles.
The Boulder County line is near the railroad tracks. It is legal to park along the side of the road.
For Pinecliffe, go W on CO Hwy 72 from Hwy 93 until you cross a bridge East of Pinecliffe. There is a dirt road that runs alongside a railroad track. Parking and access is not clear. The climbing area is a few hundred yards on your left.
For Zebra Rock, go W on CO Hwy 72 from CO Hwy 93 until you see a right turn toward Gross Reservoir. Follow this road until you see a parkingt area with a white "no camping" sign. Hike ENE about a hundred yards.
: Be advised that although Zebra Rock aka Castle Rock is in a guidebook, it is on Walker Ranch Open Space..... [Per a] Boulder County Sheriff Deputy....nobody is allowed to hike off trail in Open Space. Tickets can and will be issued!
Climbing Season For the All Locations area.
Weather station 3.4 miles from here
12 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Pinecliffe
John Shaft 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a CO
: Coal Creek Canyon
: ... : Shaft
The moves at the first 4 bolts are thin and the feet are hard to come by, no doubt the crux comes right off the deck. The route becomes easier, and it backs off for 20 feet. The final 3 bolts have thin, hard crimping again, there is an awesome pinching on long horizontal rail at the top out.There is a total of nine bolts, with 2 chain anchors. The anchors are not easily reached from the top of the crag, meaning a TR is challenging without first leading....[more] Browse More Classics in CO
BETA PHOTO: Looking east toward the main crag at Pinecliffe. N...
BETA PHOTO: Mr. Train is not your friend. A long tunnel east o...
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 18, 2004
This area is worth a visit simply because you won't be fighting off crowds. Reminded me of cragging back east where the trees often loom taller than the cliffs.
Sep 28, 2009
Be advised that although Zebra Rock is in a guidebook, it is on Walker Ranch Open Space. Myself and friend J. Auld were ordered off the cliffs in this area by a Boulder County Sheriff Deputy. He said nobody is allowed to hike off trail in Open Space. Tickets can and will be issued! Perhaps the county would someday be willing to let climbers access the cliffs with some provisions?
Feb 13, 2012
I question why the Sheriff is enforcing this (if it even is a true reg. there) and not Open Space rangers? Or was a slow day and he just had an argument with his wife?!?
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Nov 27, 2013
From Melvin Glerup: "This email comment confirms that the so-called Pinecliffe climbing area is on Private Property. The Mountain Project should not publish that this is a climbing area. There is no chance that this property will ever be available for public climbing, and all climbing should cease. No access is granted from the Lazy Z area to the north. It is also time to remove the cable (tyrolean) as it is on Private Property on both sides of the creek."
We've seen this type of categorical closure before, and once again it would be most informative to determine the exact boundaries of what land is private, what land is on open space, and what land has some other designation. From a cursory look, it appeared to me that property boundaries were pretty hard to breakdown with diverse ownership and boundaries that were not precisely identified. The complex Pinecliffe climbing area encompasses a lot of land on both sides of the RR tracks, and it not clear what land is being referenced by the "Pinecliffe climbing area" comment.