This is an awesome climb! The crux is 2/3 the way through the first pitch. An airy roof traverse that seems scarier than it is. The rock is suprisingly awesome. This route is a true test of your mini roof climbing abilities.
P1.Climb the dihedral through the pineapple colored rock to the first roof. Veer left around the roof and continue 15 up a beautiful vertical crack on the north face until you acquire a small ledge (the guidebook says "placing good belay anchors here requires thought" is a very astute notation).
P2. Climb straight above ledge until possible to traverse right to arete.
This route is located on the northwest corner of Pineapple Buttress.
To find start scramble up gully north of buttress until above first short tier.
Descent: Walk to back of buttress and descend the left side.
Typical trad rack. No fixed gear and you make your own anchors.
BETA PHOTO: The corner on the first pitch.
Top of pitch 2 on Pineapple
|By T. Gittins|
Apr 25, 2011
i recall placing a crucial purple tcu on the second pitch, which made things exciting.
|By Bud Martin|
From: Bozeman, MT
Aug 19, 2011
Great route, Canyon classic. Straightforward 5.9 climbing that actually protects well.
|By Ty Morrison-Heath|
From: Bozeman, MT
Jun 13, 2012
Fun! Got a few perfect handjams on the way up. Save a .75 and #1 Camalot for the anchor on top of the first pitch...otherwise expect to be belaying off micro gear and a sorta iffy nut. You do have a BOMBER #3 placement about 6 feet below the anchor station if your anchor were to fail.....
|By Nic Lazzareschi|
Jul 12, 2012
Should be rated 5.10a/b because this route is harder than Tigger across the canyon. For the first belay, just put an anchor above your position. Crux is below the big roof with the two smaller roofs.
|By Dana Prosser|
Aug 18, 2013
One of the best routes at Gallatin!!
|By Matt Wenger|
Jul 27, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New rappel hangers and rings about 15-20 feet back from the prow of buttress on the North side. Rappel down to a tree with a rap ring and cord slung around it. This spot could use some rap rings itself. 70m rope doesn't quite get you back to very bottom, requires some easy down-climbing. First pitch is incredible! Definitely save some small gear for belay.