The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Begin on a huge platform directly beneath the Nose. Excellent thin 5.7 fingercrack to a ledge with a belay tree and magnificent view. A wonderful Yosemite first lead. Descent: Rappel from tree (recommended) or scramble down right side.
Location
Base of El Capitan, directly beneath the Nose.
Protection
Mostly small gear .3-.75" with an occasional 1-2" piece. Can be easily lead on all passive.
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Jul 23, 2006
From the tree atop Pine Line, a series of fun face climbs can be top-roped. All climbs are right of Pine Line (5.10-5.11). See Photo. See SuperTopos for more detail.
Great warm up route and easy to protect with sweeping views of the valley (and the 3000 ft of rock above adds something too!) To get there, take the trail to the base of The Nose and walk right (facing the cliff) a few feet, looking for a large ledge. The belay tree is a ways back from the edge, so you may want to bring some slings to extend the anchor past the bushes.
By Josh Hibbard From: Los Angeles Area, CA Mar 26, 2007
Awesome view and fun climb (speaking of the first pitch, not the el Cap route). A bit slippery in spots, but easy to protect. Small pro...
Superb route with even better views. It eats passive pro for breakfast, lunch, and dinner...Definitely will want long slings to TR. Lives up to the 5.7 grade for the Valley
By Dave Alden From: San Diego, CA Feb 28, 2011 rating: 5.7 PG13
A classic crack climb right at the base of the Nose, fantastic!
Found 5 older mixed Quickdraws hanging from a branch at the base of this route, describe them accurately in a PM and I'll mail them to you.
-Simon
By Jason Albino From: San Francisco, CA Apr 24, 2012
I found the SuperTopo approach beta for this to be confusing. If you are intimately familiar with El Cap, its features, and where exactly the unmarked "El Cap Meadow" is, you'll be fine.
If not, you may find the parking location unclear, and the parking is definitely NOT at the highway sign described in the SuperTopo book. I'd call it about halfway between Manure Pile and the highway junction when you're driving away from the Valley. After parking, head towards the point on El Cap where the buttress juts away from the formation the most. The approach trail will go slightly left around this point, and you can then turn back around right at the rockface and climb up to the great ledge that accesses this climb.
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