Pine Creek Canyon
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|Location: ||37.3822, -118.6724 View Map Incorrect?
|Page Views: ||366,149|
|Administrators: ||Aron Quiter, John Robinson, Euan Cameron, Adam Winters, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)|
|Submitted By: ||Tim Steele on Jan 12, 2007|
Elizabeth shopping for holds on the ultra classic ...
A beautiful granite canyon nestled between Mount Tom & the Wheeler Crest. Most of the routes are concentrated in Sheelite Canyon, a side canyon that feeds into Pine Creek, but routes are also cropping up elsewhere, especially up canyon. The best season is late spring until the weather craps out in the late fall. Summer conditions are especially pleasant, as most routes are in the shade and a cool breeze often fans the canyon.
The canyon has a long history, with classics such as Pratt’s Crack and Sheila dating back to the 1970's. In the early 1990's, with the boom of sport climbing in the area, Tommy Herbert added what is arguably one of the proudest 5.13a's in the country with his seldom repeated masterpiece, Ecstasy, a 100 foot laser-cut aręte.
The prolific and industrious Louie Anderson almost single-handedly turned Pine Creek Canyon into a sport crag with his development of the Ministry Wall (a dense concentration of quality 5.11’s) and the Planetarium Wall, with his ultra-classic, Atomic Gecko (5.12b) getting the most traffic of any hard route in the area. It stands as a must do for the 5.12 climber. Another standout test piece is 'Wind in the Willows Extension' (5.12d) which sports 110 feet of intense granite climbing.
Recently, there has been a resurgence of development, especially at the hands of the dynamic duo of Marty Lewis and Kevin Calder, who have almost doubled the number of sport climbs in just a couple of seasons, adding numerous new 5.11 classics to the area, including a three pitch affair.
The best source of information for the canyon can be found in Peter Croft's and Marty Lewis’ excellent guide, "Bishop Area Rock Climbs".
Austin Archer on pitch 1 of Moment of Zen
Take Hwy. 395 North from Bishop to Pine Creek Road. Turn left onto Pine Creek Road. Continue through the town of Rovana and several switchbacks until you see Sheelite Canyon (the obvious deep canyon) on your right. Just across from the Campground, take a dirt road and park in one of two parking areas. Walk up the road and into the canyon.
Weather station 2.6 miles from here
180 Total Routes
['4 Stars',27],['3 Stars',101],['2 Stars',38],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',2]
Browse More Classics in Pine Creek Canyon
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Pine Creek Canyon:
Featured Route For Pine Creek Canyon
Three Hour Arete 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b CA
: Sierra Eastside
: ... : Three Hour Buttress
Four pitch climb with an easy approach. Pitch 1: left and below a bolt single bolt, then up a thin crack (5.9). Head up left to a 5.7 lieback corner. 30m pitch. 1 bolt + gear for belay (small + #2,#3) below small bush. Pitch 2: Start with 5.8 gear protected rightward traverse, then up a crack to a bolted bulge (5.9). 4 more bolts on the 5.8 arete lead to a bolted anchor. Pitch 3: 20m up the bolted arete (5.10a) to a bolted anchor. Pitch 4: Clip a bolt and commit to the crux ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
Local Information for Pine Creek Canyon
Latest Regional Forum Messages
Looking out over the Owens Valley towards White Mo...
waiting out a summer rainstorm in PC.
A cloudy summer day at Pine Creek.
BETA PHOTO: Four pitch rope solo.
Now he's after the drinks.
Mt. Tom and Pine Creek Canyon
the bear grabbed some food, and ran away across th...
Wheeler Crest. April 2010
Parking for one of the crags in beautiful Pine Cre...
We camped at the pullout near the creek across fro...
Beautiful Pine Creek in the spring.
After eating the first crate of food, he came back...
Pine Creek crags.
Photo by Blitzo.
He's wet from crossing the creek
BETA PHOTO: Map of Lamb Canyon area
By Greg Barnes
Jan 16, 2007
Bishop local Tom Costa did a great color PDF mini-guide to the sport routes a few years back, he has it in a few different formats at: homepage.mac.com/oohrah
It does not include all the new Marty Lewis/Kevin Calder routes.
By Bruce Willey
From: Bishop, CA
Aug 17, 2009
Tai Devore (AKA Mr. Pine Creek) is putting in so many new routes it's hard to keep track. But go into Wilson's and he'll hand you some topos for some really fine routes.
By Vic Lawson
From: Bishop, CA
Jul 9, 2010
New routes going up left and right...bolted, trad, multipitch, shorties, loooong single pitches, ground up, top down...whooo! It's like a golden age up in heya! Many FA parties are leaving topos at Wilsons to be xeroxed and used...but many single pitch "cragging" routes are still sitting mysterious, and rarely climbed despite their quality. Tim? Tom? You guys gonna give us the beta or what?
over 20 new pitches went up in Pratt's canyon alone over this summer and last. I vote for a community compiling of route info, available for free at Wilsons...or if someone wants to give me a small loan, I'd be happy to pen a Pine Creek guidebook....