Mountain Project: Climbing South Platte

Another great dome for moderate routes, although some of the "beginner" routes are spicier than average. The rock looks kinda chossy from the road, but some great routes are hidden between the moss, lichen, and blocks. Don't miss the great sport route, "Ben Dover."

Getting There

One of the last rocks in the canyon. Look for the big dome of the right side of the road at the 8.2 mile mark.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Pine Cone Dome:

Armaj Das 5.5 Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet

Jolly Jugular 5.6 Trad, 2 pitches, 160 feet

Roof By-Pass 5.7 Trad, 2 pitches

Punks and Old Men 5.8- Sport, 1 pitch

Harder Than It Looks 5.9- Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet

Wrestle with the Pig 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet

Blossoming Bosoms 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 170 feet

Lichen or Leave It 5.9 Trad, 2 pitches

Ben Dover 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch

Unknown (submitted as Talk to Your Toes) 5.9+ Sport, 1 pitch

She's a Moaner 5.9+ Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet

Don't Go 5.9+ Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet

Talk to Your Toes 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch

Kayak for Sale 5.10 Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet

Toy Cows in Africa 5.10c Sport, 2 pitches

Kashmir 5.10+ Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet

Stories for Boys 5.11a Trad, Sport, 80 feet

Comments on Pine Cone Dome

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By Edward Jenner
Oct 3, 2001

Although I haven't climbed all the trad routes, they definitely seem 'spicier than average'! The sort of climbing that seems significantly more difficult for the leader than the second. Take the guide book descriptions with a pinch of salt!

By davel
Aug 20, 2007

Ben,
I climbed that last week. It's definitely harder than it looks. Afterward, I talked to some guys at the Icebox and one of them told me that it was 12a or C1. My partner and I went for the latter. We usually don't have too much problem with easy 12, but neither of us could make the move.

By Dale D
From: Parker, CO
Sep 12, 2007

Posted a picture of a route that I am looking for information on. I would like to add it, but I don't know anything about it. It is towards the right end of the wall. Easy climbing past two bolts to a crux at the third bolt - a 5.9ish slab move to gain a ledge. This move is harder for shorter people like me. Then another bolt just above a short corner which can be protected with a small nut/cam if you like. The anchor seems to be shared with another bolted route to the right which starts on top of a large, leaning boulder.

Any help?

Dale

By Stewart M. Green
Sep 14, 2007

Hey Dale,

I have a hard time discerning exactly what route you mean on Pine Cone Dome from the photograph, but I think what you climbed is "Harder Than It Looks" (5.10a). The route has 7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor; some cams can give extra pro. Bill Schmausser did the FA. Fun climb with a short crux.

Stewart

By Dale D
From: Parker, CO
Sep 14, 2007

Hi Stewart,

Nope, that is not the route. It for sure only has 4 bolts. Thank you though. That picture is of the entire route - sorry it was not better.

Dale

By jeff bryan
From: Cortez, co
Jul 23, 2008

Lots of new sport routes here. More then are listed. A couple easier sport routes. I am not the best judge but the route just left of stories for boys is maybe a 5.8 you can throw in some pro after you lie back the flake. Their is also a new route just to the left of the 2 5.11s. This is really well protected and seems 5.7 with a move of 5.8 or 5.9. I have no idea so if you have any beta on these routes let me know.

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Pine Cone Dome

Description

Getting There

The Classics