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BETA PHOTO: The line of Pincushion.
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
This is a good quality line that goes up to the top of the second tier of cliffs. A bunch of old pitons found in this corner indicate that this route has some history to it.
Climb a white crack to a right-facing dihedral capped by a roof with an offwidth crack. Continue up the wide crack to a large ledge. (This pitch is not really up to the quality of the climbing above; a more aesthetic start might be to climb Chocolate Sunday
to reach the big ledge.)
At the far right end of the large ledge, climb the corner system and belay in a small alcove with some fixed pins. The next pitch continues up the crack, past a small roof, a short offwidth, and a few more fixed pitons. Eventually climb a featured chimney to the top.
Descend by walking left (east) to a wide broken area. On the eastern edge of the broken area, a rappel from a pine tree leads down a featured slab to the ledges above Soylent Green Jeans. There is a rappel tree here also, but it is easier to scramble (skier's right) down a short 4th class section, coming out at the big pine tree beneath Soylent Green Jeans
Begin on the right edge of the Hanging Block Buttress, immediately to the left of a large pine tree.
Looking down the varnished corner high on the rout...
Just above the overhang on the first pitch.
The opening overhang on pitch 3.
Starting the second pitch of Pincushion.
Historical pitons found on the route.
By Andrew Carson
From: Wilson, WY
Feb 27, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Don't be discouraged by the mossy/junky looking start to the third pitch. You can work around the vegetation without disturbing it, or you.
By Ben Townsend
Apr 11, 2014
We started up Chocolate Sunday and joined the upper pitches. Really fun climbing; if the rock quality were just a bit better, this would be a four-star classic.
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 8, 2015
There is another variation that maybe the original direct line. Start around to the right of the hanging block and left of Numic Warrior in the corner. P1: Climb the corner and exit into a slot/squeeze chimney 20 ft below the roof to a nic flat ledge (5.5) 100 ft. P2: Climb the corner and exit through a slot to a blocky ledge with a huge roof wander up to the right heading for the bush and back into the original line (5.7) 80 ft.