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Pinching Bird Shit 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Perkins
Page Views: 2,267
Submitted By: richard magill on Mar 30, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (47)
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bolt 2

Description 

A 4-star route with a name like that? It might be reaching a bit to call it 4-stars, but I do think this is one of the best routes at this crag. I don't get the name - I didn't do any pinches on the route, and definitely didn't encounter any bird droppings.

This is a steep 40 ft route in the cave, overhanging 7 or 8 feet.

Starts out interesting right off the deck, and has a really continuous series of overhanging moves out to the anchors. Lots of jugs to keep the pump down, but there is a thuggish crux about halfway up.

Location 

In the back left side of the cave.

Protection 

4 bolts to chains - and an attentive belayer! There is a rock ramp in the back of the cave that could be a little dangerous if you have out too much slack.


Photos of Pinching Bird Shit Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo:  Taylor Apple on pinching bird shit
Taylor Apple on pinching bird shit
Rock Climbing Photo:  Taylor Apple on pinching bird shit
Taylor Apple on pinching bird shit
Rock Climbing Photo:  Taylor Apple on pinching bird shit
Taylor Apple on pinching bird shit
Rock Climbing Photo:  Taylor Apple on pinching bird shit
Taylor Apple on pinching bird shit
Rock Climbing Photo:  Taylor Apple on pinching bird shit
Taylor Apple on pinching bird shit
Rock Climbing Photo:  Taylor Apple on pinching bird shit
Taylor Apple on pinching bird shit
Rock Climbing Photo:  Taylor Apple on pinching bird shit
Taylor Apple on pinching bird shit
Rock Climbing Photo:  Taylor Apple on pinching bird shit
Taylor Apple on pinching bird shit
Rock Climbing Photo:  Taylor Apple on pinching bird shit
Taylor Apple on pinching bird shit
Rock Climbing Photo: bolt 3
bolt 3

Comments on Pinching Bird Shit Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bad Sock Puppet
Dec 20, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Not as cool as Banana Dance but definitely deserves to be climbed. The crux is between the second and third clip where you encounter a sloper and a crimp on an otherwise jug haul. The top hold is pretty sandy.
By Gordon Larsen
From: St. George, Utah
Mar 2, 2013

This climb reflects what is fun about sport climbing. You spot a featured overhanging section of cool looking rock and you just want to see if you can climb it. This one will spit you off if you hesitate at the crux!
By Taylor Apple
Jun 26, 2013

I found it a lot easier at the crux to hit the right hand crimp first and than hit the left hand sloper
By lech
Feb 23, 2016
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

A knee bar made this easy, allowing me to move static through the bad holds.
By Hyrum j. C
From: St george, ut
Apr 8, 2016
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

There is 2 or 3 spots to heel hook with the right foot at the crux. If you hit the higher one it makes the crux easy. My friend dave found it.

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