Pincher  5.12b

139 page views Good page?

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet Consensus:  5.12b [details] FA:  Mike Johnson Submitted By:  Monomaniac on Oct 4, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Just above the crux of Pincher.

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

This burly boulder problem would be a must-do classic if it were twice as long. Unfortunately the line is rather short, but the movement is excellent while it lasts, and the stone is flawless. The climbing is somewhat atypical for Shelf, with dynamic slaps, opposition moves, and large(r), sloping holds.

Use your stick clip to beat back the thorn bushes, then stick clip the first bolt. Aggressive moves lead over the initial roof to a good stance at the obvious horizontal break. Slap desparately over the slight bulge with pitiful feet to a key hidden hold. Mantle onto the slab and cruise the slight runout to the anchor.

Location 

In the "Refrigerator", this is the central line that only climbs half-way up the wall (on Metolius hangers). Also the second bolted line right of Chuana Chavaria, and immediately right of the angle-iron bolts on Screamer.

Protection 

4 bolts, 2BA. Stick clip recommended.

Photos of Pincher Slideshow

Add Photo

Bird's eye view of Pincher.