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The Great Black North
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bete Noir S 
Black Toe Arete S 
Borg, The S 
Burnt Toast, The S 
Capital Outlay S 
Chuana Chavaria S 
Cold Feet S 
Datura S 
Delilah S 
Don't Eat Stuff on the Sidewalk S 
Don't Make Me Shave You S 
It's All Gone S 
Laugh the Past Away S 
Locutus S 
Magus, The S 
Pincher S 
Resistance is Futile S 
Skank to Crank S 
Three Doubles S 
Torch & Twang S 
Tout Tout de Suite S 
Tower of Power S 
Triage S 
Where Paradise Ain't So Crowded (aka "Reamer") S 


YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Mike Johnson
Page Views: 203
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Oct 4, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Just above the crux of Pincher.


This burly boulder problem would be a must-do classic if it were twice as long. Unfortunately the line is rather short, but the movement is excellent while it lasts, and the stone is flawless. The climbing is somewhat atypical for Shelf, with dynamic slaps, opposition moves, and large(r), sloping holds.

Use your stick clip to beat back the thorn bushes, then stick clip the first bolt. Aggressive moves lead over the initial roof to a good stance at the obvious horizontal break. Slap desparately over the slight bulge with pitiful feet to a key hidden hold. Mantle onto the slab and cruise the slight runout to the anchor.


In the "Refrigerator", this is the central line that only climbs half-way up the wall (on Metolius hangers). Also the second bolted line right of Chuana Chavaria, and immediately right of the angle-iron bolts on Screamer.


4 bolts, 2BA. Stick clip recommended.

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Bird's eye view of Pincher.
Bird's eye view of Pincher.

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