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The Great Black North
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bete Noir 
Black Toe Arete 
Borg, The 
Burnt Toast, The 
Capital Outlay 
Chuana Chavaria 
Cold Feet 
Don't Eat Stuff on the Sidewalk 
Don't Make Me Shave You 
It's All Gone 
Laugh the Past Away 
Magus, The 
Resistance is Futile 
Skank to Crank 
Three Doubles 
Torch & Twang 
Tout Tout de Suite 
Tower of Power 
Where Paradise Ain't So Crowded (aka "Reamer") 


YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Mike Johnson
Page Views: 162
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Oct 4, 2010
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Just above the crux of Pincher.


This burly boulder problem would be a must-do classic if it were twice as long. Unfortunately the line is rather short, but the movement is excellent while it lasts, and the stone is flawless. The climbing is somewhat atypical for Shelf, with dynamic slaps, opposition moves, and large(r), sloping holds.

Use your stick clip to beat back the thorn bushes, then stick clip the first bolt. Aggressive moves lead over the initial roof to a good stance at the obvious horizontal break. Slap desparately over the slight bulge with pitiful feet to a key hidden hold. Mantle onto the slab and cruise the slight runout to the anchor.


In the "Refrigerator", this is the central line that only climbs half-way up the wall (on Metolius hangers). Also the second bolted line right of Chuana Chavaria, and immediately right of the angle-iron bolts on Screamer.


4 bolts, 2BA. Stick clip recommended.

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