Pince Sans Rire  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Lat, Long:  42.2876, -0.082 Map Page Views:  747. Good page?    Administrator:  Tom Erickson Submitted By:  LeeAB on Sep 25, 2009 Make this area a Favorite What's New   Print a Mini-Guide with routes Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event

BETA PHOTO: Overview of the incredible routes on the right sid...

Description 

Some of the finest routes in Rodellar are in this smaller little cave. The best routes range from 5.12- to 5.13 with Pince Sans Rire 5.12c being one of the best routes in the canyon. There are also several easier routes on the left side of the cave.

The cave wraps around a full 180 degrees so there is a north facing wall, which is mostly easier and shorter stuff 5.11 to 5.12-. The west facing portion is home to some very hard long routes which go out the roof, some of which have mid anchors which still puts them in the 5.12+ to 5.13- range. As the cave curves around to face more south is where it really stands out. The wall is 100-120 feet tall and lined with tuffas sections. Starting with Akelarre/Gracias Fina and extending around to Far Faders West. There are 7 or so routes that are all long and fun. This southern facing portion of the cliff goes progressively into the shade created by the steeper cave portion of the wall and is well shaded for a good portion of the day.

There is not a lot of area to hang out so it can seem crowded even though there are plenty of routes.

Getting There 

From the trail junction head down into the canyon then up river. Pass the Gran Boveda. When the end of a small rock slide covers the main trail heading up the canyon, look for the cave up on your left or the west side. Hump it up the hill to the cave, you will approach the south facing right side first and can work around to the other side once the cave is reached.

The Classics

Featured Route For Pince Sans Rire

Pince Sans Rire 5.12c  International : Spain : ... : Pince Sans Rire

A stellar tuffa line.Start up the delicate slab and over a small low roof. Continue up the lower angle face to the base of the steeper wall above. Grab the bottom of the tuffa features and look up, try not to wet your pants. Pinch your way up the right tuffa line and when the left line is big enough to move to make the transfer. Follow this collonette up the wall to a break and some jugs. Attack the curtain of tuffas above, so many choices but the are not all good. Fight your way through this to...[more]   Browse More Classics in International