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East and Northeast Buttress Approach
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Pinball Wizard T 
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Pinball Wizard 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a A4-

Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 165', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a A4- [details]
FA: Pat Kingsbury, Trevor Bowman, and Dave Elder 9/27/08
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 664
Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on Oct 9, 2008

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Pat strung out on tipped out metal.

Voluntary Closure Every June and Seasonal Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>


This is essentially the direct finish to the second pitch of the free route Dump Watt.
Pitch 1--Climb either the first pitch of Dump Watt (5.9+) or the recommended new route Hourglass (5.11a) to the beefy, brand new belay bolts at a shelf stance.

Pitch 2--Free climb (5.10-) or clean aid (C1) up the fracture crack on the left face of the corner above to a horizontal at about 50', this is where Dump Watt exits left into the next crack over and where Unnamed truly begins. The horizontal accepts bomber cams up to #1 camalot, which will be the last good gear for quite a ways. Immediately after the horizontal, and for almost the entire length of the upper corner, you will be stringing together very marginal placements since the corner is pretty much closed. Lots of marginal beaks, tipped out small blades and baby angles make this a heady pitch! The crack opens back up at the roof, where you can place some bomber cams and pendulum left to finish up the last 30' of Dump Watt (C1 #.75-#3 cams) to its standard 2nd pitch anchors.


Dump Watt is essentially the first route right of Belle Fourche on the east face. Unnamed ascends the direct upper corner of the second pitch of Dump Watt and shares about 1/2 of the pitch.


Standard double rack of cams and stoppers, offset cams handy, 10 #1 beaks, 5 each baby angles and assorted bugaboos, tie-offs.

Photos of Pinball Wizard Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pat and Trevor still strapped to the belay at 9pm ...
Pat and Trevor still strapped to the belay at 9pm ...

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