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|Type: ||Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 165 feet, Grade II|
|Consensus: ||5.10a A4- [details]|
|FA: ||Pat Kingsbury, Trevor Bowman, and Dave Elder 9/27/08|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||Trevor Bowman on Oct 9, 2008|
Pat strung out on tipped out metal.
|Devils Tower National Monument Lifts Current Prairie Falcon Climbing Route Closure MORE INFO >>>|
This is essentially the direct finish to the second pitch of the free route Dump Watt.
Pitch 1--Climb either the first pitch of Dump Watt (5.9+) or the recommended new route Hourglass (5.11a) to the beefy, brand new belay bolts at a shelf stance.
Pitch 2--Free climb (5.10-) or clean aid (C1) up the fracture crack on the left face of the corner above to a horizontal at about 50', this is where Dump Watt exits left into the next crack over and where Unnamed truly begins. The horizontal accepts bomber cams up to #1 camalot, which will be the last good gear for quite a ways. Immediately after the horizontal, and for almost the entire length of the upper corner, you will be stringing together very marginal placements since the corner is pretty much closed. Lots of marginal beaks, tipped out small blades and baby angles make this a heady pitch! The crack opens back up at the roof, where you can place some bomber cams and pendulum left to finish up the last 30' of Dump Watt (C1 #.75-#3 cams) to its standard 2nd pitch anchors.
Dump Watt is essentially the first route right of Belle Fourche on the east face. Unnamed ascends the direct upper corner of the second pitch of Dump Watt and shares about 1/2 of the pitch.
Standard double rack of cams and stoppers, offset cams handy, 10 #1 beaks, 5 each baby angles and assorted bugaboos, tie-offs.
Pat and Trevor still strapped to the belay at 9pm ...