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Burma Road Bouldering
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Pinball Arete 

Hueco: V5 Font: 6C

   
Type:  Boulder, 12'
Consensus:  Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,021
Submitted By: SteveSchultz on Apr 16, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Ian on Pinball Arete.

Description 

Climb the arete just right of Tick Tock in the middle of the pit to a spicy topout. Start standing on the boulder and go straight up the arete.


Location 

Located in "the pit" at Burma. Near the right side of the cliff line, duck under a wedged, hanging boulder and the problem should be obvious.


Protection 

Pads



Photos of Pinball Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Im climbing the warmup crack in the pit. Pinball arete should be in the left of the photo. <br /> <br />Photo: Paul Campbell
Im climbing the warmup crack in the pit. Pinball a...
Comments on Pinball Arete Add Comment
Show which comments
By SteveSchultz
May 31, 2011

For sure one of the best in the park. With the action at Burma recently wanted to make sure this was posted.

For what it's worth you can fall off the topout with no pads or spotters, bounce off of 2 walls, 3 boulders and still walk away relatively unharmed. Not recommended, but possible nonetheless.

By Paul Campbell
From: Pewaukee, WI
Jun 1, 2011

Hey Steve, we actually checked this out but didn't take any pics. Does the problem start from the ground or ontop of the large block? The landing definitely looked scary with most of the climbing directly over a large uneven boulder.

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jun 1, 2011

I see. So we did look at the right problem. Looked somewhat scary for the landing. Didn't you mention having a terrible experience on this Steve?

By SteveSchultz
Jun 1, 2011

If I remember right you start on the block at about chest level, but I'm not totally sure. It's been about 6 years since I've done it. Crux felt like rolling over the final mantle.

John, see my first comment for said terrible experience. Be careful when cleaning the topout peeps.

By greg bahr
Oct 3, 2011

what is this? i confused?

By Paul Campbell
From: Pewaukee, WI
Oct 17, 2011

This thing is absurdly dirty. I took a couple pics I will put up later.

By Rock Warrior Films
May 8, 2013
rating: V5 6C

Props to whomever cleaned this. Fun stuff and scary with my pad situation. I traversed left a few moves after a big move to an easier top out above Tick Tock. From what I have understood it starts standing on the boulder. Go do it now while it's clean.

By SteveSchultz
May 9, 2013

The cleaning may have been left over from last fall when Katie and I attempted to clean the top. Was extremely muddy then but we assumed it'd clean off with some moisture. Also, updated the description.

By Rock Warrior Films
May 9, 2013
rating: V5 6C

It sounds like you topped out direct Steve. I didn't want to risk taking that fall... it's pretty slopey up there and the rock kinda felt bad today. With more pads it looks awesome and more full value than how I did it....

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 26, 2013
rating: V5 6C

A couple really good variations went up today, maybe they have been done before.

Balltick V6?, start left hand on the low start hold on Tick Tock and right hand anywhere on Pinball Arete. Climb up. Ian on the start:

Start position for the variation: Balltick.  See description under Pinball Arete.
Start position for the variation: Balltick. See description under Pinball Arete.




Powerball V7 or maybe V6 if it were less humid out? Sit start into Pinball Arete, starting low and on right side of the arete. Blake on the start hold and first move:

Start position and first move on Powerball, a sit start into Pinball Arete, see description under that problem.  Blake starting and sending.
Start position and first move on Powerball, a sit start into Pinball Arete, see description under that problem. Blake starting and sending.


And Ian coming around the corner into the arete, hard balancy moves:

Ian coming around the corner on Powerball, a sit start into Pinball Arete.  See comments under Pinball Arete.
Ian coming around the corner on Powerball, a sit start into Pinball Arete. See comments under Pinball Arete.