Pin Chimney 5.8+
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | Dempsey Medford, Carl Resh - 1985 |
| Submitted By: | saxfiend on Jan 5, 2007 |
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Trying hard to blend with the color of the rock, I...
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Description With its traversing moves and the old piton that gives the route its name, Pin Chimney is a little reminiscent of Gunks climbing. The rock is great quality, the protection is good and the exposure rivals that of the neighboring Comfortably Numb. One of the nicer moderate trad routes at Sand Rock.
Starting on a flat boulder below a large cave, work your way up the right side of the cave to a ledge above. Note: don't count on getting any protection in before gaining the ledge. Traverse left and up to an obvious chimney, noting an old pin which you may or may not decide to clip. Climb the well-protected chimney to the top.
Location Starts near the east end of the Pinnacle, below a cave, around the corner left of the Standard Route.
Protection A good range of cams, nuts, tricams (mostly medium range). Long slings are needed for the traverse. Bolted anchors on top.
Just past the crux overhang. This felt stout for 5...
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Great exposure for Sand Rock
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David Logan leading Pin Chimney.
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By Ross Mac
From: Newnan. Ga
Oct 18, 2012
| Must do if good trad leads are your thing. Have heard many way that route offers minimal protection in for about the first 25' but i had no difficulty. Move up right of the roof then traverse left until under obvious chimney. Once into chimney the start of it there are not many options for pro except the old Piton wedged in the crack at the start. Piton seems good enough then once you push past the start of the chimney there are more options for pro. But hands down one of the best routes i have done at sand rock. |
By Cres Simpson
From: Birmingham, AL
Dec 6, 2012
rating: 5.8+
| Awesome trad route and my favorite trad lead at SR (though I haven't built up the nerve to lead Comfortably Numb yet). I think I actually started halfway between the direct start and the true start -- it's slightly overhung but on huge jugs and protects extremely well with a slung horn about 10' off the deck. From there it's smooth sailing!
I did not clip the fixed pin in the chimney as it looked pretty manky, but there's ample pro, albeit finicky. I had some large tricams with me (grey and green, iirc) that worked well. The pro is definitely there, you just have to find it!
Overall an outstanding climb and one of SR's moderate trad gems. |
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