Lower Tier of Pilot Knob from the nice little area...
A primarily shady crag, Pilot Knob faces Northwest. With that aspect comes some of the usual suspects: vegetation, lichen, moss, etc., on some of the crag. Other parts of the crag are clean, strikingly good stone, and good climbing. This applies particularly the upper tier. Despite the short (and presently dry) approach, lack of ivy, and solid stone, and moderate grades, this crag hasn't seemed to have gotten popular. I suppose it is still waiting to be discovered by the masses. Perhaps the lower pitches that gate the best climbing above keep the masses away, but it is, nonetheless, a great crag for a pair of climbers to dedicate a day to.
The better climbs there were the following moderates: Stress Fracture
(5.7) Touch and Go
(5.7+) Scoop Up a Little Sky
("5.8+" (+++)) Ejector Seat
Drive 7.3 miles up canyon to mile 25.8. Park in a long paved pullout on the left and look across the creek to see the 'Stewardess Convention Crag.' Just downstream of that, back down the hill to your left, is an obvious pinnacle around which the stream bends Southward. That is the Pilot Knob.
While the traditional approach is to wade the stream below Stewardess and then walk down a ways to Pilot Knob, presently there is a very large tree that has fallen across the stream and one can climb into its end, then walk "down" the tree to cross the creek completely dry. From there, it is a 3 minute walk to the base of the crag.
Climbing Season For the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon area.
Weather station 9.3 miles from here
15 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',11],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Pilot Knob
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Pilot Knob
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Pilot Knob:
Featured Route For Pilot Knob
Scoop Up a Little Sky 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a CO
: ... : Second Tier
Of the routes that we did on Pilot Knob, this was the best. There are two starts, an 8 (easier) or the 9+ (recommended). To do the 9+ start, head up under a roof to the right of Touch and Go and pull through it on the right side onto a face and past a very large wedged block. Protect this and continue up into a crack system slightly to the right, ending after some horizontals. Clip a single bolt and do the second crux (8+) on face moves to reach a bolted anchor....[more] Browse More Classics in CO
Tree crossing from the "other" side of t...
BETA PHOTO: Chris Parks on a 6am crossing to Pilot Knob. That...
By J Marsella
From: Berthoud, CO
Jun 30, 2013
In his excellent guide from Sharp End Publishing, Gillett offers the advice that, if you wish to climb the "Third Tier," you can, but it's not worth the time; and he suggests eschewing the rap bolts for the 4th-class downclimb.
Also of note: Parking GPS coords: 40.173458,-105.362147
By Justin Brunson
From: Broomfield CO
Jul 28, 2013
As of July '13, the tree crossing is still bomber.
By Eva Raphael
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 12, 2015
It seems the bomber tree bridge did not survive The Flood. Now we wade across the river. There is also a small pullout closer to the crag than the paved parking area with the above coordinates.