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Pillsbury 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Eddie Whittemore, Chris Watford - 1993
Page Views: 3,894
Submitted By: bbrock on Aug 10, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Streeetching to clip the first bolt

Description 

Follows a system of seams, then turns to slopers up high. The crux of the route seems to be moving from the clipping stance for the first bolt and establishing yourself on the wall.

Location 

First route you come to when going past the left side of the left bunker. Starts on a big flake down low and moves to a ramp out left.

Protection 

draws


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By Allie
From: the open road
Apr 6, 2008

Don't overlook this climb! It looks kind of so-so from the ground, but it's very enjoyable climbing! I'm short (5'2) and I found the second bolt a wee bit hard to clip. I definitely think the hardest part of the climb is getting established on the route, after that it's very consistent. There's great holds up top! enjoy!
By Swamp Cookie
From: da Bayou
Jun 7, 2012

As far as location goes, looks like there is a new route just left of the Left Bunker. Pillsbury may be considered the second route past the bunker. The new route feels more like a 5.9 Can anyone verify this?
By Kate Mittendorf
From: Nashville, TN
Jul 26, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Regarding the comment above, yes the route to the right of Pillsbury (first one coming from the bunker) is far easier. I would probably give it a 5.8 or 5.8+. Pillsbury is amazing! Very good for a smaller person's first 11.