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Potrillo Cliffs
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Desperate (Left) 
Double Trouble 
Dream of White Gerbils 
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Fool on the Hill 
Grandstanding 
Gymnast 
Heron's Fissure 
Jane 
Kor's Dog 
Left Cave Route 
Lower Kor's Crack 
Pieces of Eight 
Pillars of Hercules (left var.) 
Pillars of Hercules (right var.) 
Porky's Bad Luck 
Right Cave Route 
Route 1 
Route 1.5 
Route 19 
Route 4 
Shaky Flake 
Sleeper 
Tarzan 
Upper Kor's Crack 

Pillars of Hercules (right var.) 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: G. Bell + LA Mountaineers, 1955
Page Views: 534
Submitted By: Chris Wenker on Mar 24, 2008
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Courtney P., taking a bit of a rest after pulling ...

Description 

This is route #18 in the on-line guide, which calls it "The most classic and popular route at Potrillo, with a wide variety of climbing techniques in a short distance."
The Pillars of Hercules route is easily identified by the two massive buttresses that mark the prow of the cliff. The climb has two start variations; both starts lead to the base of a broad chimney betwixt the two mighty pillars.
This right start variation requires one first to mantle onto the right side of the large, flat-topped boulder/pillar that marks the base of the climb. The crux is moving off the right side of this boulder, getting to a stance below the twin fist cracks in the back of the broad chimney. The left twin crack seems to protect better.


Location 

This is the leftmost (westernmost) route on the south wall.


Protection 

The crux is fairly easily protected, but a fall here will very possibly land you back on the flat-topped pillar. The top twin cracks eat up medium/large cams.
Popular to top-rope; a 2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top, was recently re-installed (please don't sling the tree anymore). There's also abundant opportunities for a gear anchor on top if you like.



Photos of Pillars of Hercules (right var.) Slideshow Add Photo
Pillars of Hercules, right variation, 5.8, Potrillo Cliffs, White Rock, NM
BETA PHOTO: Pillars of Hercules, right variation, 5.8, Potrill...
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