Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Potrillo Cliffs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ardeidae Arete T,TR 
Belly Flop T,TR 
Belly Up T,TR 
Call of the Crane T,TR 
Car Camping with the Kids T,TR 
Cave Route Center T,TR 
Chuckwalla T,TR 
Chuckwalla Right T,TR 
Cindy's Chimney T,TR 
Desperate (Left) T,TR 
Double Trouble TR 
Dream of White Gerbils S,TR 
Fickle Fingers T,TR 
Fool on the Hill S,TR 
Grandstanding T,TR 
Gymnast T,TR 
Heron's Fissure T,TR 
Jane T,TR 
Kor's Dog T,TR 
Left Cave Route T,TR 
Lower Kor's Crack T,TR 
Pieces of Eight T,TR 
Pillars of Hercules (left var.) T,TR 
Pillars of Hercules (right var.) T,TR 
Porky's Bad Luck T,TR 
Right Cave Route T,TR 
Route 1 TR 
Route 1.5 T,TR 
Route 19 T,TR 
Route 4 T,TR 
Shaky Flake T,TR 
Sleeper T,TR 
Tarzan T,TR 
Upper Kor's Crack T,TR 

Pillars of Hercules (right var.) 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: G. Bell + LA Mountaineers, 1955
Page Views: 742
Submitted By: Chris Wenker on Mar 24, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Courtney P., taking a bit of a rest after pulling ...


This is route #18 in the on-line guide, which calls it "The most classic and popular route at Potrillo, with a wide variety of climbing techniques in a short distance."
The Pillars of Hercules route is easily identified by the two massive buttresses that mark the prow of the cliff. The climb has two start variations; both starts lead to the base of a broad chimney betwixt the two mighty pillars.
This right start variation requires one first to mantle onto the right side of the large, flat-topped boulder/pillar that marks the base of the climb. The crux is moving off the right side of this boulder, getting to a stance below the twin fist cracks in the back of the broad chimney. The left twin crack seems to protect better.


This is the leftmost (westernmost) route on the south wall.


The crux is fairly easily protected, but a fall here will very possibly land you back on the flat-topped pillar. The top twin cracks eat up medium/large cams.
Popular to top-rope; a 2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top, was recently re-installed (please don't sling the tree anymore). There's also abundant opportunities for a gear anchor on top if you like.

Photos of Pillars of Hercules (right var.) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pillars of Hercules, right variation, 5.8, Potrill...
BETA PHOTO: Pillars of Hercules, right variation, 5.8, Potrill...

Comments on Pillars of Hercules (right var.) Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!