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 ADVANCED
Potrillo Cliffs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ardeidae Arete T,TR 
Belly Flop T,TR 
Belly Up T,TR 
Call of the Crane T,TR 
Car Camping with the Kids T,TR 
Cave Route Center T,TR 
Chuckwalla T,TR 
Chuckwalla Right T,TR 
Cindy's Chimney T,TR 
Desperate (Left) T,TR 
Double Trouble TR 
Dream of White Gerbils S,TR 
Fickle Fingers T,TR 
Fool on the Hill S,TR 
Grandstanding T,TR 
Gymnast T,TR 
Heron's Fissure T,TR 
Jane T,TR 
Kor's Dog T,TR 
Left Cave Route T,TR 
Lower Kor's Crack T,TR 
Pieces of Eight T,TR 
Pillars of Hercules (left var.) T,TR 
Pillars of Hercules (right var.) T,TR 
Porky's Bad Luck T,TR 
Right Cave Route T,TR 
Route 1 TR 
Route 1.5 T,TR 
Route 19 T,TR 
Route 4 T,TR 
Shaky Flake T,TR 
Sleeper T,TR 
Tarzan T,TR 
Upper Kor's Crack T,TR 

Pillars of Hercules (right var.) 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: G. Bell + LA Mountaineers, 1955
Page Views: 594
Submitted By: Chris Wenker on Mar 24, 2008

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Courtney P., taking a bit of a rest after pulling ...

Description 

This is route #18 in the on-line guide, which calls it "The most classic and popular route at Potrillo, with a wide variety of climbing techniques in a short distance."
The Pillars of Hercules route is easily identified by the two massive buttresses that mark the prow of the cliff. The climb has two start variations; both starts lead to the base of a broad chimney betwixt the two mighty pillars.
This right start variation requires one first to mantle onto the right side of the large, flat-topped boulder/pillar that marks the base of the climb. The crux is moving off the right side of this boulder, getting to a stance below the twin fist cracks in the back of the broad chimney. The left twin crack seems to protect better.

Location 

This is the leftmost (westernmost) route on the south wall.

Protection 

The crux is fairly easily protected, but a fall here will very possibly land you back on the flat-topped pillar. The top twin cracks eat up medium/large cams.
Popular to top-rope; a 2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top, was recently re-installed (please don't sling the tree anymore). There's also abundant opportunities for a gear anchor on top if you like.


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Pillars of Hercules, right variation, 5.8, Potrill...
BETA PHOTO: Pillars of Hercules, right variation, 5.8, Potrill...

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