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Routes in 3. Albion
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Big Dipper TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Cecret Saddle TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Extrovert TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Extrovert Upper TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Glory Gulch TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Little Dipper TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Pillar East TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pillar Left TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pillar Right T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sidewinder TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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So Long TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | TR, 30 ft (9 m) |
| FA: | TR Ken Roberts 2015 |
| Page Views: | 621 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Dec 31, 2015 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, SMarsh |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance.
Details
The current parking area is now limited parking, subject to the following guidelines:
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
Description
Scramble up about ten feet to reach the steep face of the East wall. Up the wide crack almost at the left (south) edge of the East wall. At the top of the wide crack make a big step right, then up narrow cracks and flakes to top out on the main mid-platform.
. Variation: From the top of the crack, go directly to the top (without using handholds for the Pillar Right route) - (5.9).
Easier version ... (skip the wide crack and big traverse step):
Scramble up higher diagonal rightward below the East face, then take the upper right narrow cracks + flakes to the top.
warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
. Variation: From the top of the crack, go directly to the top (without using handholds for the Pillar Right route) - (5.9).
Easier version ... (skip the wide crack and big traverse step):
Scramble up higher diagonal rightward below the East face, then take the upper right narrow cracks + flakes to the top.
warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
Location
Below the main Albion base mid-platform, at the Left (south) edge of the East wall of the pillar - (the East wall faces in the same direction as the main Albion slab above the platform which forms the top of the pillar -- faces toward the electric power substation).
For Top-Roping can lower in from the usual top anchor for Albion which is about 30 feet above the main base platform (possibly with the belayer standing on the platform instead of at the bottom of the route).
Or can reach the bottom by scrambling (difficulty 4th class exposed) from the Albion base platform left (west) across the Baldy sector's main base platform, then up a couple of shield flakes (the start of the Ballroom route) step left then down the arete on the right side of the gully for the Mambo route to its bottom. Then walk right (east) underneath the Zumba Mambo and Strictly Ballroom variations, then diagonal down southeast, past the bottom of the Gunsight arete, continue down alongside the cliff to the base of the interesting vertical south face of the pillar whose top is the main base platform of the Albion area.
Or shorter but more slippery and less fun, could try scrambling difficulty 4th class) down northeast - east - southeast down from the Albion base platform, down around the east side of the pillar to reach its bottom.
For Top-Roping can lower in from the usual top anchor for Albion which is about 30 feet above the main base platform (possibly with the belayer standing on the platform instead of at the bottom of the route).
Or can reach the bottom by scrambling (difficulty 4th class exposed) from the Albion base platform left (west) across the Baldy sector's main base platform, then up a couple of shield flakes (the start of the Ballroom route) step left then down the arete on the right side of the gully for the Mambo route to its bottom. Then walk right (east) underneath the Zumba Mambo and Strictly Ballroom variations, then diagonal down southeast, past the bottom of the Gunsight arete, continue down alongside the cliff to the base of the interesting vertical south face of the pillar whose top is the main base platform of the Albion area.
Or shorter but more slippery and less fun, could try scrambling difficulty 4th class) down northeast - east - southeast down from the Albion base platform, down around the east side of the pillar to reach its bottom.
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